Anyone who’s visited The Chequers in Chipping Norton READ OUR REVIEW HERE will have a good idea of what’s in store when they visit The Mermaid in Burford, because it’s been taken over by the same team.
Having reopened a few months ago, The Mermaid was bustling when we popped in for lunch this week, word spreading about the top notch pub grub in the offing on Burford High Street.
Burford is experiencing something of a renaissance, its olde-worlde tea shop reputation being replaced by a more refined offering, thanks to an influx of revitalised pubs and hotels READ OUR TORO REVIEW HERE.
Burford is experiencing something of a renaissance, its olde-worlde tea shop reputation being replaced by a more refined offering
And while there are plenty of places serving British classics to the huge influx of tourists, Joe Glover and his partner Kevin Dursley wanted to push the boat out a bit further and give us something to talk about.
Recruiting head chef Tom Addy, formerly of the Carpenters Arms down the road, certainly got the ball rolling, his nose to tail ethos already paying off, the menu littered with evidence from faggots to venison and their home-made sausages, as well as some great home-made pickles.
head chef Tom Addy’s nose to tail ethos is already paying off
There are plenty of plans afoot – The Mermaid’s garden and back dining room being refurbed next – but in the meantime there’s plenty of tables upstairs and downstairs where you can enjoy Tom’s stunning menu.
And while all the classics are there from fish and chips to burgers and steak, there’s also an impressive smattering of more ambitious offerings that took our fancy, as well as a great bar snack menu.
while all the classics are there, from fish and chips to burgers and steak, there’s also an impressive smattering of more ambitious offerings
So the cider Welsh rarebit with Mermaid pickles was a must, as was the onion bhaji with a mango and ginger gel and coriander (£8.50) to get us going. And what a way to start; the rarebit was a masterpiece the cheesy, unctuous, rich, bubbling cheese on the toasted sourdough completed with pickled cucumbers and onions.
The onion bhaji (£8.50)was just as good, curls of onions encased in piping hot gram flour batter and smothered in the sweet and sour sauce. Fab-u-lous.
The Jerusalem artichoke & truffle velouté was another showstopper
The Jerusalem artichoke & truffle velouté (£9.50) was another showstopper; silky, rich, smooth with a real depth of flavour, the whipped butter and home-made roll going that extra mile. Nothing here is taken up a level.
As evidenced by the fig carpaccio with whipped ricotta, dried figs, hot honey and white balsamic gel (£11), such a surprise and yet still seasonal, pretty as a picture, the delicate flavours of the fruit, cheese and hint of chill beautifully balanced.
The smoked salmon & lemon crème fraîche terrine would be at home in a fine dining establishment
The smoked salmon & lemon crème fraîche terrine (£13) would be at home in any fine dining establishment, the artistry and skill set involved, from the layered fish framed by the parsley oil, linseed crackers and piccalilli, the tiny bright yellow cauliflower florets piquant but not too sour. Perfectly executed.
We had to try the Mermaid’s Iron Aged Pork Sausages and mash (£20) because they’re made on site, Iron Age being the breed of pig, sat on a bed of the best mash we’ve had in a long time; buttery, smooth, waxy and thick, the crispy onions adding a crunch, finished off with a rich, shiny Marmitey jus, al dente green beans and cabbage (£20), the sausages well seasoned although the insides didn’t stay clumped together.
We had to try the Mermaid’s Iron Aged Pork Sausages because they’re made on site
The pan fried monkfish with tandoori roasted carrots, tomato & tamarind chutney, cumin yoghurt and crispy chickpeas £28) was totally different, the flakey fish resting on the spiced yoghurt, the rest of the ingredients enveloped in a strong, sweet, sticky, tamarind based stew.
Puds were a must then after a meal of this calibre, the chocolate stout cake, chocolate cremeux, creme fraiche and artichoke crisps (£9.50) piquing our interest.
Puds were a must after a meal of this calibre
And who can resist a burnt honey panacotta with glazed figs and honeycomb (£9.50) – a gentle, mild dish with just the right wobble, in total contrast to the chocolate stout cake which roared with flavour; the salty, artichoke crisps, which shouldn’t have worked but did, giving texture and a contrast to the robust cake, piped milk chocolate fondant and clean hit of sour cream.
Talk about making a good impression, and huge admiration to the new tenants Joe Glover and Kevin Dursley, because when they do something they do it properly.
Joe Glover and Kevin Dursley have gone hell for leather and pulled out all the stops. we loved every second
No corners are being cut at The Mermaid, no lazy offering, they have gone hell for leather and pulled out all the stops. And we loved every second.
So lucky Burford, because while The Mermaid may look unassuming, Tom Addy’s food is really worth shouting about.
The Mermaid is punching well above its weight but its novelty and ambition shines through without any airs and graces
So go, and thank us later, because The Mermaid is punching well above its weight but its novelty and ambition shines through without any airs and graces, which is a hard gig to pull off, but between Joe, Kevin and Tom, they’ve pulled it off.
The Mermaid is at 78 High Street, Burford. https://www.mermaidburford.co.uk
