News that Nick Pullen had taken over as head chef at The Chequers in Chipping Norton created quite the buzz, the former Wild Thyme chef patron known for his culinary prowess. EXCLUSIVE: It’s all going on at The Chequers in Chipping Norton! Wild Thyme’s Nick Pullen is back and changing things up in the kitchen
But The Chequers is still a pub, and wants to stay that way, so how much leverage would Nick have and would we really notice the difference?
The Chequers is still a pub, and wants to stay that way
In a nutshell the answer is a massive yes, all conducted without any pomp and ceremony. The food just came out and proved magnificent.
If you’ve been, you’ll know The Chequers boasts a historic, wood panelled front bar with multiple dining and drinking areas, and then a big light modern, plant-filled, glasshouse dining room at the back where we insisted on sitting despite the warm weather.
The menu is enticing, but certainly not gastro – prawn cocktails, sandwiches, charcuterie boards, pies, burgers, fish and chips, you get the picture. It’s pub grub.
hidden away on the menu, for those who fancy something a bit more elevated, there are some culinary gems
But hidden away, for those who fancy something a bit more elevated, there are some culinary gems, which we pounced on, just to see if Nick’s magic touch could be spotted.
It’s a lovely eating area as well – relaxed, genteel, convivial – there’s no rush and we took our time. Some ice cold drinks and the sticky Korean belly bites (£10) which were crispy on the outside and juicy within, the sauce spicy and vibrant.
The double baked Black Bomber cheddar soufflé with toasted hazelnuts and local honey was one of the best we’ve ever had. Absolutely exemplary
Then the double baked Black Bomber cheddar soufflé with toasted hazelnuts and local honey (£12), which was one of the best we’ve ever had. Absolutely exemplary, the souffle generous, pert and bouncy (see main pic), properly risen but still moist, the surrounding sauce so rich and cheesy, the honey cutting through, the nuts giving it a crunch. It was literally heaven.
Then the crispy chicken schnitzel, caesar, salad and Serrano ham (£22), a nice take on a classic, the salad perched on the crispy poultry, so aesthetically impressive, served with whole anchovies (which are usually in the dressing) the Serrano ham crispy and salty.
the piece de resistance was the special: poached natural smoked haddock with hollandaise sauce, crushed new potatoes and summer greens, which was one of the nicest dishes we’ve eaten this year
But the piece de resistance was the special: poached natural smoked haddock with hollandaise sauce, crushed new potatoes and summer greens (£20,) which was one of the nicest dishes we’ve eaten this year.
Smoked haddock can be a bit slimy or insipid, but this was neither under or overcooked, but moist and flaky, immersed in a delectable, generous, light, lemony hollandaise which we could have eaten with a spoon.
we could have eaten with the delectable, generous, light, lemony hollandaise with a spoon
The fish is delivered fresh every day which explained a lot, but the accruements were just as good – the potatoes were crushed and then semi baked so they were crispy and soft, and the summer greens – green beans, mange tout and cabbage – were al dente and cooked to perfection, every element of the dish given Nick’s unwavering attention. Neither was the dish over proportioned, but just the right quantity. Almost speechless, we couldn’t believe our luck.
We hadn’t even got to the puddings yet, but hurriedly perused the menus wondering if our luck would run out! After questioning our lovely waiter Jacob about the French meringue – a fancy version of an Eton mess – we ordered one, accompanied by the milk chocolate mousse with creme fraiche, sea salt and honeycomb (£10).
the meringue had that perfect sticky, chewy, crunch, the sweet cream layered with both dried and macerated strawberries and a honeycomb dust, the strawberry juice running down the side…
Once again everything was homemade – the meringue had that perfect sticky, chewy, crunch, the sweet cream layered with both dried and macerated strawberries and a honeycomb dust, the strawberry juice running down the side.
But the chocolate mousse really set the cat amongst the pigeons, its consistency something to marvel at – creamy, oozy, rich, not too sweet but really chocolatey and light, served in a simple glass and topped with sour cream and the most delectable honeycomb – the kind that gets satisfyingly stuck in your teeth.
yes, the bill cost more than a pint and a burger, but we’d gone all in and didn’t regret a penny
And yes, the bill cost more than a pint and a burger, but we’d gone all in and didn’t regret a penny. So welcome back to Chipping Norton Nick. You’ve been missed, and Chequers regulars are in for a treat, although with food like this I’m sure it will be pulling in punters from far and wide.
The Chequers, Goddards Lane, Chipping Norton OX7 5NP. Go to https://www.chequerschippingnorton.co.uk
