Let’s start with the Mary on Vacation which produced a tumult of sensory questions; how can a cocktail taste like a greenhouse? How can a drink with cheese in it taste this good? How on earth did bar manager Freddie Swain come up with a concoction consisting of mozzarella infused vodka, tomato, cucumber and basil essence, lemon juice, soda, basil and black pepper salt?
It sung from the first sip. From the salty fiery coating on the rim of the glass to the heady but subtle flavours within, it was an entirely new taste experience and it’s haunted my dreams since. Genius and if I use that word too often, here I mean it.
That’s not to deter from the Penang, a posh pina colada with lemongrass infused spiced rum, pineapple juice, coconut milk, kefir lime syrup, lime juice and coconut sherbet, which drew groans of admiration from us all. So refined and inventive. And last but not least The White Hart Bloody Virgin – spring onion and chilli vodka, tomato juice, house spice mix and lemon juice, taking a classic and pushing the boundaries. Literally the best cocktails in town!
But then they always push the boat out at The White Hart in Fyfield and a more seasonal, fresh, home-grown menu you’d be hard pushed to find, growing much of their own produce themselves.
So as soon as the sun pops out and the summer veg ripens our antennae turn automatically to Mark and Kay Chandler’s revered hostelry.
Sat outside in the dying rays of the sun with our drinks, it was impossible to resist the accompanying nibbles menu; the courgette frites with toasted sesame and sriracha mayonnaise (£6), the homemade bread with assorted whips and butters (£8), the Korean chicken with pickled red onion, chilli and sesame (£10) and the alt and pepper squid (£9).
The courgette frites were delectable, tempura like but still crumbly, they were crispy, light and the dip punchy. We could have eaten them several times over if we weren’t saving ourselves for the ensuing feast.
And a special mention to the bread. The perfect example of how new head chef Grahame Wickham‘s food goes the extra mile – the’ carrot, beetroot, rosemary & thyme whipped butters, with the selection of breads. not only pretty as a picture but you could pick out the individual and distinctive flavours of each.
The salt and pepper squid was also exemplary, with its lemon aioli and chive oil accompaniments. How would we manage dinner?
As the sun set we opted to eat inside, and were led into a charming table in the ancient wood panelled dining room for some more delightful, summery dishes. What I love is that if you don’t want the fine dining experience there are mezze sharing boards and a wood-fired pizza oven to keep everyone happy.
But we did, going all out with the sumptuous a la carte menu, kicking off with the charred watermelon with feta, olives, tomatoes, cucumbers, red onion and oregano (£10.50) – a refreshing take on a classic Greek salad.
Plus the Wood Brothers vodka cured salmon with cucumber and a horseradish aioli with scorched orange and sumac (£12) was another zingy offering, (although more dill gel would have been much appreciated), and the texturing of the ham hock and Oxford vintage mature cheddar terrine with piccalilli and a toasted sourdough crouton (£11.50) was beautifully layered, the crouton like Melba toast.
For mains the tempura courgette flower from the White Hart garden is always a must – so seasonally fleeting, so delicate, stuffed here with ricotta and toasted pine nuts and served with herb gnocchi, peas and garden vegetables (£21).
But at the opposite side of the table a much more robust meal was taking place – the 12 hour cooked belly of Kelmscott pork, parmentier potato, apple, carrot, crackling and cider jus (£29); the crackling provoking a long discussion about the best crackling needing to be both crunchy and chewy, this ticking all the boxes, the pork, succulent and sweet.
The chicken supreme and black truffle with pomme puree, roasted leek, wild mushroom and a chervil and creme fraiche chicken jus (£29) was just as elegant and juicy.
Even the sides shone. The béarnaise accompanying the tenderstem broccoli, defying belief.
As for the desserts they were off the scale; the hot chocolate fondant, cherry ganache, cherry ice cream (£10) our favourite, so dainty and piquant while the apricot millefeuille with candied citrus peel, and apricot ice cream (£9.50) was light and refined as you’d expect.
It just never disappoints at The White Hart in Fyfield, because it continually raises its game, the staff are friendly and professional, and our meal there was a ray of culinary sunshine. So congrats to Grahame Wickham and his team for another highly memorable dining experience.
For further information on The White Hart, Fyfield or to book go to https://www.whitehart-fyfield.com
