It’s always wonderful introducing people to Spiced Roots on Cowley Road, because it blows their socks off every time, that innate moment of understanding crossing their faces as they dive in. It’s almost impossible to beat.
So it was worth braving the sub zero temperatures for some of the famous Spiced Roots hospitality, slap bang in the middle of East Oxford.
There are so many misconceptions about Caribbean food, often only eaten at festivals and carnivals, but st Spiced Roots it’s given the kind of reverence it deserves, the real deal.
And while Spiced Roots isn’t pompous (it couldn’t be more laid back if it tried, its straw hut beach bar style vibe setting the scene) every Caribbean dish there is the best you’ll find.
So it was with great excitement that we sat down in the bijou restaurant, quaffing one of the wonderfully strong rum cocktails and opting for a starter platter of goodies (see main pic), a bit of everything. One bite of their saltfish croquettes with smoked paprika aioli, with its soft potato filling stuffed with flakey fish, and crispy outside, hitting the spot.
Then the smoked baigan and tomato choka, served with toasted bara, like a smoky Caribbean babaganoush, the bara a puffy bready pittas. The Jerk chicken spring rolls (£4.95) were generous, the jerk splcing spot on. As for the grilled octopus salad with pineapple chow, its fresh, juicy, crunchy ingredients were sliced through by the sweet salty octopus.
The dish of pepper whole tiger prawns (£6.50) disappeared without trace.
And that’s before the main event. Mouths watering in anticipation, the feast that appeared still exceeded expectations. Let’s start with the slow braised Jamaican oxtail (£19) – thick, dark, rich, unctuous, the meat falling off the bone, it was mind-glowingly good. Accompanied by the cubes of densely packed smoky mac ‘n cheese and come finely chopped spicy coleslaw, and it was fit for a king.
Let alone the delights of the tamarind glazed lamb chops £19.50) with papaya chutney, sweet potato chips and a rosemary demi glaze; the meat thick, juicy, tender, flavoursome and pink.
Which meant we had to leave room for the jerk corn fed chicken, served with homemade jerk sauce, rice, peas and salad (£16.50), the skin having a real kick, the chicken encased within succulent and juicy.
Veggies and vegans were also well catered for; the ital callaloo, okra and gungo pea rundown with pumpkin talkari, (£15.50) akin to a wonderfully smokey dahl, while the sautéed jamaican ackee, black rice, jerk oyster mushroom, avocado and confit cherry tomato (£16.50) had a wonderful bite and zing.
Fancy some pud? Some yummy brownies, a gloriously dense vegan banana bread with caramelized banana glaze, and a classic rum cake with rum and raisin ice cream (£7) that stuck to the spoon, fitted the bill.
As we said, Spiced Roots never disappoints and our guests were confounded by the flavour, passion and authenticity of our experience there.
“That was one of the best meals we’ve had for a very long time,” they remarked as we exited in awe.
So if you haven’t been, go. Don’t miss out on one of Oxford’s best kept secrets, because in terms of Caribbean food it’s the best. Just be careful of the rum!
Spiced Roots is at 64 Cowley Road, Oxford OX4 1JB. https://spicedroots.com
