There was a real frisson in the air on arrival at OXTWO in Summertown last night, where the cook off between top chefs Johnny Parke and Paul Welburn was taking place. EXCLUSIVE: Parke V Welburn cook off at OXTWO in Summertown sells out as top chefs go head-to-head, and Paul launches cookbook Evolve!
Totally sold out within days of being announced, the two chefs put their all into the event, cooking like kings. The precis was that Paul and Johnny would serve their food anonymously, a dish each for all three courses, without their avid audience knowing whose was whose.
At the end of each course diners had to pick their favourites, hand in their score cards and OXTWO would then announce who’d cooked what and who’d won.
It was a brilliant idea, and certainly set the cat amongst the pigeons. What was assured was the high calibre of the dinner awaiting us. Because Paul (Michelin starred, who worked at Oxford Kitchen and The Swan in Islip) and Johnny (who won BEST CHEF in the OXINABOX FOOD AWARDS 2025 and is executive head chef at OXTWO and The Back Lane in Woodstock) are both shining lights on the culinary front. We knew we were in for a treat.
Led to our tables, the magic began. First up the crispy pig, burnt apple and smoked leek, served as crispy croquettes scattered with tiny cubes of sour Granny Smith apple, topped with the smokey pureed leek and the burnt apple, which was almost like a ketchup, the ham hock inside coarse but juicy, an epic start.
Then the scallops with lardo and a champagne sauce, topped with an air-dried slice of bacon so light and crispy it crumbled in your fingers, the shellfish succulent and generous, slathered in the thick piquant sauce and scattered with peppercorns and pea shoots. Heaven.
The Surf & Turf was another deconstructed offerin;, a slice of sumptuous steak, stuffed pasta (slightly undercooked) with lobster and tuna, a cube of tender burnt cabbage, an exquisite lovage coulis and two different jus’, both of which sung, demonstrating a dexterity, creativity and skillset beautifully on the plate.
The tuna, watermelon dashi was an entirely different kettle of fish (excuse the pun), because if the Surf & Turf was strident, the tuna was subtle and layered, the tart watermelon sorbet nestled on top, then crispy puffed rice, the crunch of radish, dots of avocado puree, tiny cubes of roasted watermelon, whole pickled tomatoes and basil cress all nestled on the sashimi tuna and the sweet tomato dashi, each mouthful revealing something new. Hugely accomplished.
Neck and neck, the puddings might swing the votes! The frozen toddy won dish of the night, an extraordinary blend of subtle tastes and textures, hitting you in wave after wave. The frozen lemon chiboust (a crème pâtissière lightened with meringue), covered in whisky, crumble and lemon puree, topped with a scoop of Hilary’s honey ice cream and a honey tuile. Absolutely beautiful to behold, none of the ingredients were overpowering but just accentuated the flavours. Quite extraordinary.
That’s not to deter from the innocuous sounding strawberries & cream, here anything but, the marinaded strawberries enhanced with a tiny apple doughnut, granita crumble, strawberry ice cream, a fruit syrup and a white chocolate tuile. Were there too many elements on the plate? Either way it was absolutely delicious.
Grinding to a halt metaphorically, the kitchens exhausted, the guests satiated and full, the voting cards were handed in and the count up began, tables second guessing the results. And as both chefs had their own fans in the room, diners were busy trying to discern the duos characteristic styles.
The announcement was made by Chris Brewster and Michael (who co-run OXTWO), Johnny winning by a whisker, the pair still firm friends, shaking hands and celebrating the evening with their guests as Paul signed copies of his new cookbook EVOLVE, having cooked the dishes within. It turns out offerings were the crispy pig, tuna dashi and frozen toddy.
What a privilege to not only witness but enjoy such a fabulous evening, and as the two friends and rivals chatted companionably afterwards, and the guests chattered about their meal, Chris, Johnny and Paul agreed it was an experience they must be repeated.
So watch this space, because the battle of the titans looks set to return. An experience that can’t be missed!
To order Paul’s new cookbook EVOLVE go to https://www.awaywithmedia.com/buy-books/food/paul-welburn
OXTWO is at 267 Banbury Rd, Summertown, Oxford OX2 7HT https://www.oxtwo.co.uk
