We’d had a tip off that the roast at The Feathers was absolutely stunning. We’d been for dinner and cocktails at the recently reopened Woodstock hotel this summer, so knew the calibre of chefs Luke Rawicki and Shannon Mulholland, and what they were capable of.
The recent rave review in The Times agrees, quote unquote “The Feathers is the new chick in town, but it’s already knocking the competition off its perch – quite the feat in a charming Cotswolds spot.”
So we were expecting great things when we arrived in the busy Nest brasserie, having fortunately reserved a table in advance, as it was fully booked with families, couples and friends.
But this is no casual eatery. The Nest is a step above and Sunday lunch is a treat. The staff may be friendly but the service is impeccable from the word go. From the moment you walk into the reception where your coats are taken, to when you are ushered into the cosy, muted-toned, wood panelled restaurant, the table immaculately laid, the scene is set.
Cocktails made freshly at The Aviary bar? Yes please – a Feathers of Woodstock special (Earl Grey, Grey Goose vodka, elderberry, hibiscus sparkling wine, dehydrated lemon dust), and a glass of very good red wine, arrived while we perused the menu.
Because while most Sunday lunch menus are pretty straight forward, there were so many incredible extras here, alongside the roasts, that we were spoilt for choice.
Diving into the ‘nibbles’ section – the mozzarella sticks with buffalo sauce (£7) were an unexpected offering the cheese oozing and stretching out of its crispy crumb, scattered with herbs, the velvety, tangy sauce the perfect accruement.
And then the starters – the Cotswold wood pigeon with foie Royale, blackberry and sage (£13), the plate picture perfect in terms of presentation, the foie Royale rich with goose liver, scattered with crispy puffed rice seasoned with cep powder, the wood pigeon a delicate gamey terrine, the plump, glistening blackberry jelly dome adding tartness, the sage oil and fried leaves bringing it together. Exceptional.
The celeriac ‘linguine’ with mushroom, truffle and chive (£11), heartily recommended by the next door table, was thick with sauce, flavoursome, unctuous, healthy, we could see why they liked it.
All of which was like walking up the red carpet to the main event – the roast itself. And despite the build up, it didn’t disappoint. In fact it shone.
And it wasn’t just the calibre of the meat. Take the 28 day aged sirloin of beef (£34), (thanks to butchers Aubrey Allen) generous slices slathered on the plate, salted and resplendent, it was the extras that clinched the deal. Some deluxe herb dusted crispy roast potatoes, a huge, towering Yorkshire pudding, seasonal vegetables, cauliflower cheese and gravy.
And so much more – the carrot and swede mash dotted with toasted seeds and rich with butter, was a stand alone dish. Ditto the cauliflower cheese, which needs a review of it own, served in a bubbling skillet, piping hot, crispy on top, stern with cheese, and just the right bite and ooze factor, it was superb. Throw in the creamy horseradish, parsnips, spring greens, red cabbage, and the gravy, (eminently drinkable) and it was a feast indeed.
For those not quite up to a banquet of such epic proportions there are lots of other options from fish and winter salads to an enticing sounding potato and tarragon gnocchi (£22) with Godminster (cheddar), alliums and tender stem; elegant, the gnocchi home-made, soft but firm, layered with herbs – more sauce would have been appreciated, but the greens spliced through the richness.
How to finish off a meal like this? With the toffee apple tarte tatin with almond, vanilla and yoghurt sorbet to share, and the caramel chocolate namalaka with milk crumble and lime ice cream (£22). So different, so novel, so accomplished.
The tarte tatin was sweet, sour, sticky and dense, cut through by the yoghurt. And the caramel chocolate namalaka, reminiscent of a Nestle Caramac bar, the Japanese dessert a chocolatey, creamy concoction like a cross between a ganache and a mousse, then studded with crunchy, sugary nuggets which contrasted with the subtle lime ice cream. A fitting conclusion to a wonderful meal
Stunned into submission, we left in silent awe. What a meal! So if you haven’t been to The Feathers yet, give it a go. It really is making waves on Oxfordshire’s culinary scene and deserves a place at the top table.
The Feathers, 16-20 Market Street, Woodstock OX20 1SX. https://www.feathers.co.uk
