Dozens of people continually poured into the new Arbequina in Oxford’s Covered Market while we were having lunch, desperate to nab a table. As it was absolutely heaving most were asked to return in 10-15 minutes, while others were directed to the numerous bar seats lining the open plan kitchen. But you can get in if you persevere.
Arbequina has opened somewhere to shout about in central Oxford while boosting the Covered Market’s foodie vision – to create a hub for independent eateries – somewhere Oxford can be proud of
One thing’s for sure, this is the hottest ticket in town, and as you can’t book, it’s anyone’s game. But the new Arbequina, which opened on July 24, had to get it right, because there’s been so much hype around the opening of their new Covered Market branch, that the whole of Oxford was watching. EXCLUSIVE: ‘It’s the first proper restaurant in The Covered Market so we’re really excited’ Sneak peek at Arbequina’s new site
Of course the success of Arbequina on Cowley Road is well documented, as listed in the Michelin guide, but this was a new foray for a different crowd – the throngs of tourists, locals and students who frequent the Covered Market every day, wanting a quick bite.
the bustling atmosphere, quick turn around and continuous stream of customers, is completely the opposite to the laid back vibe in East Oxford
Which means the whole tempo and vibe is different there, the bustling atmosphere, quick turn around and continuous stream of customers, completely the opposite to the laid back vibe in East Oxford, something GM Ben Bateman is relishing.
Which means that head chef Ben Whyles has got his work cut out, he and his team working at lightening speed. But that doesn’t mean that any of Arbequina’s magic Spanish dishes are compromised, instead the sheer quality and ingenuity of the small plates still taking your breath away.
the sheer quality and ingenuity of the small plates still takes your breath away
It’s a short menu – some snacky starters, six veg, six fish/meat dishes and then puds. But trying to pick, and not order each and every dish nearly killed us.
The onion tortilla (£7) – A MUST -, the jambon croquetes with tomato sauce (£6) and the fries and aioli (£5.50) to kick things off then, the tortilla living up to all expectations as always – soft and unctuous, the knife slicing through the thick, almost gooey potato and onion omelette, the flavour literally stopping us in our tracks. What a start!
The onion tortilla lived up to all expectations – soft and unctuous, the knife slicing through the thick, almost gooey potato and onion omelette
The croquetas followed suit, the sweetness of the ham and soft potato inside, encased in a crispy hot coating, dipped in the tomato sauce which tasted like a chutney.
The chips needed a bit more salt to contrast with the garlicky mayo, but it’s a minor point, and then we were totally distracted by the arrival of the La Latteria mozzarella with tomato, fennel and peach (£12) – the tomatoes and peach gently cooked so soft and juicy, topped with a block of the creamy, stretchy Italian cheese scattered with herbs, salt and shavings of fennel, which we gorged on in a most unladylike manner.
we gorged on the La Latteria mozzarella with tomato, fennel and peach in a most unladylike manner
Tempura artichokes – I mean come on! Quartered, fried in a gritty savoury batter and sat on drizzles of lemon, herb yoghurt and pistachio for crunch, their almost metallic taste allowed to shine. So simple but so moreish!
The crispy chickpea salad with chilli butter and herb yoghurt (£10) was the only dish reminiscent of sister restaurant Oli’s Thai, except here it’s the mediterranean flavours that take precedence, accentuating all the other dishes we’d ordered.
the Iberia tenderloin with mojo verde was chargrilled, sliced, and laid on the thick, vibrant, rich, green herbed sauce. Simple, elegant, juicy and packed with flavour
But then the main event arrived – the Iberia tenderloin with mojo verde, the meat chargrilled, sliced, and laid on the thick, vibrant, rich, green herbed sauce. Simple, elegant, juicy and packed with flavour, it was a fitting conclusion to the savoury end of our meal.
There were puds to come – another impossible choice to make – only room for one after such a feast – and we opted unanimously for the chocolate mousse with Chantilly cream (£8) and were not disappointed. So rich and light it was almost flaky, you had to eat in in tiny teaspoons with a scoop of the light sweet cream. Utterly addictive we were soon scraping the glass clean.
we opted unanimously for the chocolate mousse with Chantilly cream and were not disappointed. So rich and light it was almost flaky
The coffee by the way is also excellent, so whether you want to pop in for a glass of wine and a few nibbles, or a full blown meal, the new Arbequina has covered all the bases.
We were done in a hour, and knowing the vast numbers of people waiting for a table hot-footed it home.
just remember to check Arbequina market’s opening hours
But one thing’s for sure – we will be back soon because not only has Arbequina opened somewhere to shout about in central Oxford (thank God) but it has really boosted the Covered Market’s foodie vision – to create a hub for independent eateries – somewhere to draw the crowds and offer something really special, somewhere Oxford can be proud of.
So just remember to check Arbequina Market‘s opening hours – daytimes Wednesday – Sunday – and evenings on Fridays and Saturdays, the market shutting at 10pm.
Arbequina, 11-15 The Market, Oxford, OX1 3DU. https://arbequina.co.uk
