Currently celebrating 17 years in the business, a visit to The Magdalen Arms on Iffley Road was on the cards, its stellar offering meriting all the accolades (it was also a finalist in the Best Gastropub category in the OXINABOX FOOD AWARDS).
it’s easy to forget just how vibrant and all encompassing this revered East Oxford pub is
And yet it’s easy to forget just how vibrant and all encompassing this revered East Oxford pub is, thanks to owners Florence and Tony’s constant guidance, its welcoming atmosphere and bustling atmosphere hitting you as soon as you enter, parents playing games with their children in the corner, locals and students drinking at the bar, the dining area behind absolutely packed to the rafters.
Cresting the wave, and never resting on its laurels, The Magdalen Arms is a refreshing change from the tasteful pubs in the Cotswolds, and as such is a breath of fresh air. You just have to read the room to see the formula here is not only working, but has ensured it’s a beloved institution.
You just have to read the room to see the formula here is not only working, but has ensured it’s a beloved institution
Rubbing our hands with glee, we kicked off with a drink at the bar, Ben’s incredible Negroni hitting the spot amidst the pints and wine, because there are no airs and graces here, The Magdalen Arms’ community vibe evident.
But the food is still the big draw here so we were exhilarated about tucking into its exciting menu, packed with European classics and exceptional comfort food, chef patron Tony’s Italian roots always evident, the pasta made fresh every day on site.
a refreshing change from the tasteful pubs in the Cotswolds
Their sharing plates for two to three people are also infamous and we’ve enjoyed many a lost afternoon over off the braised beef or slow cooked pork.
Seated at the only remaining table, we were surrounded by friends and families, couples, date nights and everyone in between, our lovely server Annalise revealing the day’s widely anticipated menu, which changes every day.
the day’s widely anticipated menu changes every day.
The salt cod fritters and aioli (£9) had our name on, the piping hot, crispy casing enveloping the flavoured, potatoey, flakey fish filling enhanced by the garlic dip. Heaven.
The pungency of the Provencal fish soup with rouille and gruyere croutes (£9.80), with its Marseille echoes, was as rich and fragrant as expected, and totally authentic. And who can resist a bowl of Padron papers (£8) – oily, charred and salty – and the burratina (a smaller burrata) with garden beets, Treviso (red lettuce) and a hazelnut dressing an intense mix of seasonal textures and flavours.
Cornish mussels mariniere with chips and aioli was on the specials and who can resist? Mariniere has sadly gone out of fashion – tomato and Thai bases now more prominent than the traditional garlicky, creamy, wine sauce. But with mussels in season, and The Magdalen Arms refusing to mess with the classics, we were rewarded with the pert, fresh and bouncy shellfish immersed din that irresistible sauce, accompanied by crispy chips and a tart aioli. Bring it on!
Cornish mussels mariniere with chips and aioli was on the specials and who can resist?
There’s a first time for everything, and the spinach and ricotta rotolo (£18) was a novelty, like an Italian pasta Swiss roll, each layer packed with the cheesy green filling, and then lathered in a sage butter and parmesan sauce, and served in a slice.
But the big debate was whether to share the Hereford steak and ale suet crust pie with chips and hispi greens (£59 for two or three), or the seven hour lamb, gratin dauphinoise and pickled red cabbage (neck for two £58 or shoulder for three £80)? What a dilemma!
the pies passing our table just needed horns to achieve Desperate Dan status
The lamb won even though the pies passing our table just needed horns to achieve Desperate Dan status, but we were rewarded by a generous portion of meat which literally fell off the bone, covered in a rich gravy and accompanied by carrots and veg. The dauphinoise was more of a boulangère (cooked with stock rather than cream), but the potato was still soft, gratineéd and addictive.
Another bottle of wine then to accompany our desserts, the almond and raspberry tart with creme fraiche, (£8.80) the burnt Basque cheesecake with poached quince (£8.80) and the chocolate nemesis cake with creme fraiche (£8,80). The winner, a hard won contest, was the Basque cheesecake infused with the sweet but sharp fruit, an inspired pud.
The winner, a hard won contest, was the Basque cheesecake infused with the sweet but sharp fruit
Their take on a Bakewell tart was more artisanal, like an upmarket muesli bar, whilst the ultra-rich, flourless chocolate cake made famous by The River Cafe was nicely cut through by the sour cream.
It was an epic meal, and as the conversations and laughter ebbed and flowed around us, the waiters constantly circulating, hopeful diners seizing any vacated tables, the convivial, bohemian, laid back atmosphere enveloping us all, I silently congratulated Florence and Tony for continuing to bring something so accomplished to the table.
The Magdalen Arms is at 243 Iffley Rd, Oxford OX4 1SJ. Go to https://www.magdalenarms.co.uk
