The last time we visited The Fox at Barrington it was definitely resting on its laurels, its heyday a distant memory. But since Gemma and Terence King took over in 2022, landlords at sister pub, The Angel in Burford, life has been restored to the 17th century inn, now a bustling hostelry, serving some really great food right on the banks of the Windrush.
Its Sunday lunch is renowned, and it being the season for log fires and comfort eating, we defied the wet, blustery weather that nearly whipped our brolly away, and popped in to see what all the fuss was about.
The first thing we loved, apart from the glorious setting and welcoming interior, was the extended Sunday lunch hours (noon until 8pm), perfect for anyone unable to commit to midday due to family commitments.
The menu was similarly accommodating, nothing too over the top, but a great selection none-the-less from head chef Mike Burkert and a stonking specials board.
But nothing had prepared us for the sheer vivacity of the food itself; the attention to detail and the flavour imbued in the dishes, really something to behold.
Take the innocuous sounding carrot and coriander soup (of the day) usually overtly sweet, watery or bland, here its vibrant colour and depth of flavour meant that every last spoonful was eagerly consumed.
Ditto the braised ham hock with cornichons, pickles, celeriac remoulade and croustade (£9), beautifully presented, where each element shone; from the tiny pickled onions which were sweet and soft, almost like grapes, set against the sharp cornichons and the layered chunks of succulent ham. But it was the celeriac remoulade that took our breath away, which along with the light, crunchy, cheesy parmesan crackers, were heavenly.
The roasts followed soon after and The Fox didn’t hold back, the rare roast beef (£24) towering high with roast potatoes flecked with thyme, gleaming carrots, finely sliced spring greens, a vast Yorkshire pudding and a pungent gravy.
The accompaniments a tasty swede puree, spiced red cabbage and cauliflower cheese oozing with cheddar. We ordered a round of pigs in blankets as well, overcome by a last minute pique of greed, and they too topped the bill, the crispy bacon wrapped around the tasty chipolatas.
My daughter tried the nut roast (£16) and was equally as delighted, similarly plated, the nicely seasoned slice fitting in well with the accruements.
We had to ask for more gravy but otherwise it was an enormously satisfying undertaking, everything cooked just so.
The chocolate sundae (£11) with a rich, dark mousse, tiny chunks of toffee fudge and white chocolate sauce with vanilla ice cream, lived up to all expectations, the long spoon enabling us to try a myriad of flavours combinations
While the plum clafoutis (almost like a flan) with custard (£9) from the specials board was a surprise; the custard pink when we poured it out from its tiny jug, the sweet and sour clafoutis satisfyingly sticky and burnt in all the right places.
So if you haven’t come across The Fox in Barrington, just past Burford, we’d advise you to put it on your radar pronto, because while its wintery offering is currently the perfect fodder, come spring and summer, when the outdoor tables by the river beckon, we can’t think of a more picturesque place to dine.
The Fox at Barrington, Great Barrington, Burford OX18 4TB https://thefoxatbarrington.com
