“Spam fries really? There are so many other things to try,” I begged my dining companions, but their minds were made up. Spam fries it was then.
And you know what? I’d go back just for another portion; wrong in so many ways they were absolutely irresistible. But then that’s the thing about The Plough in West Hanney, it’s a bit mischievous, enormously fun, hugely popular and doesn’t take itself too seriously. Plus the food is really good thanks to head chef and partner Luke Mayor.
So while you could opt for said spam fries or the intoxicatingly good fried pickles with ranch dressing (£9) which made me rub my thighs in glee, there are some more grown up offerings from pan-fried sea bream and Spanish meatballs to calamari and onglet steak.
‘that’s the thing about The Plough, it’s a bit mischievous, enormously fun, hugely popular and doesn’t take itself too seriously. Plus the food is really good’
To be fair we tried most of the starters from the incredible home-made hummus and flatbreads (£7) – the hummus rich and spicy, the flatbreads blackened, to the roasted red pepper soup with golden raison chutney and sourdough (£8) – the chutney nestling at the bottom of the bowl so first you got a flavoursome, tangy, peppery soup and then a hint of something darker and fruity. Unusual but it worked mightily well.
The prawn gambas (£11) with toasted sourdough were testament to how good the seafood is here, delivered fresh every morning, as was the torched mackerel with red pepper chutney, puffed rice and creme fraiche (£11) – perfectly cooked it was another stand alone dish.
The charred courgettes with lemon and mint yoghurt with harissa and crispy courgettes (£11) was an exemplary addition, smacking of the Mediterranean, but the spam fritters with gochujang mayo (£9) were a revelation. Having refused to even try one, I gave in when I saw the looks on everyone’s faces of utter joy. Crispy on the outside firm but tender inside, the sauce perfect, they might have looked like dead man’s fingers but they tasted divine.
Sitting up and paying attention now, we followed with the moules mariniere served in its classic, rich, piquant, creamy sauce (£9.50/£16.50), scooped up by the shells and sourdough in an indecent amount of time.
The courgette pizza with lemon, mint and chilli on a white base (£14), was a bit tame, it needed more chilli, but the pea and broad bean risotto with lemon ricotta and parmesan crisps (£18) was not only beautiful to behold, but fresh, seasonal and vibrant, the rice cooked with just the right bite, the lemon adding a zing, the veg al dente, the parmesan crisps adding texture and crunch.
As for the BBQ glazed pork belly slices with a fennel and apple salad and dressed new potatoes (£28), the meat was succulent and juicy, the glaze giving it a depth and richness offset by the clean taste of the apple and fennel.
‘In terms of a night out you can’t have much more fun than booking a table at The Plough’
We had to share a pudding, there was literally no room at the inn for anything other than multiple spoons until the chocolate mousse with honeycomb arrived and was fought over like samurais in battle, not content until the last sticky, crumbly, crunchy hunk of honeycomb and smear of rich, velvety mousse was consumed.
Throw in a fantastic bottle of red Lebanese wine (who knew?) and we literally had to be carried out to our taxi.
In terms of a night out you can’t have much more fun than booking a table at The Plough, because it is permanently packed inside and out with regulars from far and wide, all wanting a piece of the action, landlord Owain Llwyd-Jones‘ legendary company and of course Luke’s cooking.
A pretty hard formula to beat then really, which is why it’s so enduringly beloved. A top night out all round!
The Plough at West Hanney https://theploughathanney.co.uk/about/
