Good Persian food is a rarity, the heady, rich Arabian cuisine unlike anything else. And thanks to Shiraz which set up shop on Cowley Road four years ago you can try it for yourself.
Inconspicuous and well hidden amongst the vibrant mix of global restaurants in East Oxford, only its name (Shiraz is a city in Iran) gives away its heritage and the treats awaiting inside.
The owners hail from Iran (Persia changed to Iran in 1935), but its cuisine has been passed down for centuries and its classics remain almost unadulterated. At Shiraz they are given full attention without spoiling their originality.
Its a simple interior, decorated with Middle Eastern tiles, gold plates and Arabic murals, people coming and going as we took our seats. Being open all day meant we could feast on a late lunch without rushing, leaving us to take our time over the menu.
Feeling adventurous, we opted only for the unknown, all except for the ‘khoresht ghormeh sabzi’ which was number one on my hit list, so we kicked off with the ‘ash reshteh’ – a traditional Persian soup with herbs, beans, chickpeas and noodles garnished with fried onions, fried mint and whey.
It arrived with the zeytoon parvardeh (olives marinated with pomegranate molasses, crushed walnuts and herbs, and the torshi – traditional homemade pickled vegetables (£5.99) which were tart and acidic, in comparison to the unexpectedly sweet olives in their rich sauce. But it was the ash reshteh which stole the show, quite unlike anything we’ve tried before, thick with bitter herbs and sweet crunchy onions, every spoonful a different texture and taste.
Then something more hearty, because while there were lots of enticing kebabs on the menu, we opted for the baghali polo mahiche (£17.99) – slow cooked lamb shank with rice, dill, broad beans and steamed rice – the portion enormous, the meat falling off the bone – fragrant, lightly spiced, those rich herbs colouring the rice.
The khoresht ghormeh sabzi was equally exciting – a Persian herb stew with red kidney beans and sun-dried lime (£12.99) served with bright yellow saffron rice, rich with fenugreek, spinach and the bitterness and citrus of the lime, its depth of flavour and ironey taste was as impressive.
We didn’t have any desserts, far too full, contenting ourselves with the rose and cardamom chai laced with rose petals and then stirred with sugar crystals on a stick and absolutely delicious.
All-in-all a totally unexpected, enlightening and revelatory experience then. So next time you want a hit of iron and a unique dining experience then give Shiraz a go. Masood and his family will be pleased to see you.
Shiraz is at 47-49 Cowley Rd, Oxford OX4 1HP https://www.shirazpersian.co.uk/oxford/
