“That was absolutely one of the best meals I’ve had for a very long time. That duck… I’ll never forget it,” my husband murmured as we weaved our way home, his attention still firmly focused on our superb dinner at The Old Crown in Faringdon.
There’s a lot I’ll remember; head chef Samuel Squires‘ attention to detail, the delicacy of each dish, the balancing of the flavours, the artistry. Truly impressive.
Yes, head chef Samuel Squires has made quite a name for himself since taking over the kitchens at The Old Crown and turning it into one of the Oxfordshire’s top fine dining locations, and we are amongst his biggest fans.
Samuel Squires has made quite a name for himself since taking over at The Old Crown, and we are amongst his biggest fans
His food surpasses itself, and despite The Old Crown being a destination hotel and restaurant, it”s always a real treat.
Opened last year by new owners Nick Evans, his son Sebastiaan and business partner Andy Clarke, the trio set about restoring the dated town centre hostelry to its former glory, refurbishing its 14 bedrooms, installing a funky cocktail bar and recruiting Samuel Squires. READ ABOUT IT HERE
Always a treat, one’s anticipation and appetitive increases as you approach, entering via the busy pub at the front, full of diners enjoying the brasserie style menu, and through to the impressive former ballroom at the back, where Samuel’s culinary artistry plays out in full.
and then a delectable bowl of smoky spargle – white asparagus served in a roscoff and goats cheese emulsion split with parsley oil
It’s an elegant space, but despite the impressive furnishings, the onus is on the food, the menus pounced upon. Keen to start our eloquent meal; the amuse bouche; tiny cheese and bacon tarts with black bomber custard, beer and parmesan set the scene perfectly.
Exquisite, the soft crumbly pastry, the delicate cheesy filling, the hit of bacon, more, more, more.
And more we had, much more, firstly some home-made bread served with salty beef fat butter or salt and honey, and then a delectable bowl of smoky spargle – white asparagus served in a roscoff and goats cheese emulsion split with parsley oil, a delightfully textured, delicate and complex dish and one of my favourite courses of the evening.
Stunned into submission and marvelling at Samuel’s finesse, it was certainly a meal to remember
Starters included a divine piece of scorched mackerel with celeriac, apple and parsley (£12), popping with mustard seeds, and a nostalgic plate of Jerusalem artichokes with honey, pear and herbs.
Even the ravioli was heightened, complete with smoked egg and nestled on a bed of ricotta, parsley, carrot and parsnip
Our feasting continued with the mains, the innocuous sounding corn fed chicken, which was anything but, served with leek, shallot, mushroom and ragu (£28), the latter a tiny dark meat tart that was so deliciously surprising it actually made my friend squeal in delight, the chicken moist and packed with flavour.
The cod, with caviar, prawn ravioli, Noilly Prat and fennel (£26) was unashamedly French in approach, beautifully laid out on the plate, it was suitably refined.
Even the ravioli was heightened, complete with smoked egg and nestled on a bed of ricotta, parsley, carrot and parsnip, picture perfect, the yolk, once pierced, running down into its vegetable accruements.
But it was the duck which made such a lasting impression, arriving with a spicy spring roll, honey and spring onion, the meat just the right shade of pink, crispy skin, tender, beautifully cooked, it is still reverently discussed to this day.
The highlight? The banana sticky pudding with miso, popcorn, peanut butter and kalamansi (a Philippine lemon, who knew?)
Could things could get any better? Yes, because the desserts excelled themselves; fun, elegant and lovingly prepared.
The highlight? The banana sticky pudding with miso, popcorn, peanut butter and kalamansi (a Philippine lemon, who knew?) the unanimous favourite amongst some stiff competition. The lightness of the banana pudding contrasting with the dense, salty, sweet sauce was too delicious for words.
The dainty lime cheesecake with pear, verbena and almond was as pretty as a picture, the citrus zing cutting through the sweeter elements, while the cherry doughnuts with goat milk, pistachio crumb, vanilla and kirsch (£12) were valiantly fought over.
Our chocoholic friend opted for the ‘Ferrero Rocher’ – made with hazelnut, 54% chocolate and gold leaf, resplendent to look at, although less complex perhaps than its fellow desserts.
Some tiny honey and lavender sponges filled with lemon curd were served as the petit four, concluding the meal on a blissful high.
if you haven’t been and want your culinary socks blown off, The Old Crown at Faringdon is where it’s at!
Stunned into submission and marvelling at Samuel’s finesse, it was certainly a meal to remember, if not a gastronomic highlight of the year.
Samuel also offers a full vegetarian and vegan tasting menu, so no one misses out!
So if you haven’t been and want your culinary socks blown off, The Old Crown at Faringdon is where it’s at. Samuel Squires is certainly one to watch.
The Old Crown Coaching Inn is at 25 Market Place, Faringdon, SN7 7HU. https://www.theoldcrowncoachinginn.com/food-drink
