There’s nothing worse than food envy. Debating for hours over what to have and then watching someone else eat what is rightfully yours, even though you’ve ordered something equally as delicious, is about as bad as it gets. And that was certainly the case at The Perch.
So despite the gardens stretching down to the river, the separate Shed Bar beckoning, the clink of glasses and cutlery on the busy terrace, the airy conservatory overlooking it all, the peace and tranquility, the warm sun on your skin, it still niggled.
How did this happen? I’d made the cardinal sin of eyeing up the puds first, and knowing that come hell or high water the gingerbread pudding with honeycomb, stem ginger, caramel sauce and vanilla ice cream had my name on it.
And then I worked backwards, choosing two starters to leave room for the main attraction. A great plan until the dishes started pouring out of the kitchen, and I learned my lesson. Leave pudding for afters.
I still managed some pretty fine offerings – the free range pork belly bites with Cobble lane nduja and Bramley apple sauce (£8.75) kicked things off well and then the shredded ham hock, caper & parsley terrine with celeriac remoulade & toasted soda bread (£13.45) which softened the blow considerably, aided magnificently by the dainty beer braised onion & cheddar tart with heritage radish, apple, celery & watercress salad with mustard. (£12.95).
Even the whipped rosary goats cheese, beetroot, sprouting broccoli, pomegranate & orange salad with maple & mustard dressing (£19.95) raised a smile.
But then the Guinness & treacle-roasted beef short rib with tarragon mash, pickled red onion and a parsley salad (£28.95) arrived and I began kicking myself under the table, the gleam of the gravy enough to make me weep, the soft, flaky unctuous meat and the herbed potato, all too enticing.
The free range chicken, ham and leek suet crust pie with savoy cabbage and roasted heritage carrots (£25.95) was just as insulting, the dense rich filling soaking into the suet pastry topped with a flaky lid.
I almost sulked when tour waitress Gwladys brought out the supreme of tuna with grilled courgettes, fennel purée, cherry tomatoes and crispy caper salsa arrived, c/o of the specials board, the fish perfectly cooked.
But then came my moment in the sun, dessert! And it was worth all the mental agony and discomfort because the the gingerbread pudding was a revelation that drew appreciative gasps from the abstainers, the sponge light, bouncy and, spicy, surrounded by a rich, naughty treacly sauce punctuated with crunchy honeycomb, tiny cubes of stem ginger and vanilla ice cream to calm it all down. Well worth the sacrifice.
And that’s why The Perch is still in the game, because yes, it’s got views to die for, but to keep the punters, locals, tourists and regulars pouring in you have to give them what they want, something to remember, quality and consistency, and with Executive Chef Craig Thomson in the kitchens that’s what you get every time, come summer or winter.
More than that, The Perch refuses to rest on its laurels, so despite the extensive garden offering, a new decking area is being finished on the far side, preparations ongoing for a busy summer of beer festivals, weddings and events. And judging by the sheer quantity of drinkers and diners enjoying the sun, it’s working, while maintaining that unquantifiable air of stylish calm and casual elegance that we all know and love.
So as soon as the sun pops out, you know where to head, and if it rains the sophisticated conservatory will take the slack.
The Perch Inn, Binsey, Oxford, OX2 0NG https://the-perch.co.uk
