How do you copy your precious, award-winning gastropub and replicate it in a luxurious outlet village without losing some of its charm? Presumably this was the challenge faced by the team setting up The Double Red Duke‘s new branch in Bicester Village which opened in November READ ABOUT IT HERE, but they’ve done a brilliant job.
Located on the site of the former Farmshop, it has kept its wooden, barn style decor and long bar, and while less sophisticated than the Clanfield original, is still as slick, bustling and vibrant as its counterpart.
But would the food match, or had it dumbed down its offering to appease the masses? Absolutely not. Despite the entire restaurant being full, the extensive dining areas packed to the rafters and hopeful diners queueing out the door, it was a glorious experience from start to finish.
The service was immaculate, the staff in red shirts, in contrast to the pink tops at sister pub The Masons Arms in Clanfield REVIEW: Why the recently opened Mason’s Arms in Clanfield, sister pub to The Double Red Duke, is our new favourite place, our Bloody Mary’s arriving promptly and packing the expected punch.
The menu is perfectly pitched, covering all the bases for the wide mix of families, friends and tourists visiting Bicester Village, its offering of breakfast, tea and all day dining ensuring that whether you want a quick bite, pub classics or something more ambitious, you’re in luck.
And yet there were so many goodies to be had, it’s still hard to make a decision.
The Yorkshire buck rarebit with watercress (£15) was a must, rare on menus, but when done properly a gift, the ‘buck’ a fried egg, the soft rich, cheesy topping exactly as hoped for, the yolk adding an extra component.
The woodfired scallops with chervil and tarragon butter (£16) was a more sophisticated offering – ibeautiful to behold, the orange coral the perfect contrast against the green herby butter, the generous shellfish cooked just so.
The Westcombe Cheddar toastie with pickled walnut and green salad (£16) for the youngsters, was hearty – and a meal in itself – although the pickled walnuts were rather acidic.
But it was the mains that made The Double Red Duke really shine. First up were the pies, which yes, you can find on most pub menus, but here were the best we’ve had in a long time. The pie of the day was steak (£19.50) but we also tried the leek, potato & Cornish yarg (£22.50), both served with mash, greens and gravy.
Glazed, the pastry crisp, crumbly, dense and thick, encasing a well-filled flaky beef filling, the vegetarian version as sumptuous. Throw in the perfectly flavoured creamy mash, the wilted greens, and gravy with just the right shine, and we were in heaven.
On the other side of the table, the 220g Flat Iron steak with chips and green salad (a very reasonably priced £25), enhanced with a side of roast bone marrow (£5), was being demolished with great gusto, the 28 day aged Hereford chargrilled, smoky beef flawlessly cooked, the chips moreish, the pert, crispy salad dressed like a French brasserie’s (high praise indeed), the bone marrow filling unctuous and adding an extra level.
Another classic – the fish and chips, is famous here, but the battered haddock, hand cut chips, peas and tartare sauce (£24) still surpassed expectations, the batter light and crispy, the fish fresh and flaky, the tartare bursting with capers and herbs, the mushy peas bright with just the right bite.
The masala lamb cutlets, coriander chutney, onion & green chilli salad (£32) was more unusual; the green chilli salad rather over abundant, although the lamb was juicy and munificent, the dip spicy and pungent.
A meal of this magnitude demanded dessert – particularly the sticky toffee pudding with Mr Whippy style vanilla ice cream, and the chocolate mousse.
The rich, treacly depths of the sticky toffee pudding were outstanding, its sweet sauce offset by the light ice cream. The mousse was more of a dollop topped with whipped cream and immediately attacked by multiple spoons until there was only a smear left on the plate.
People were still queueing out the door when we reluctantly left, our table relaid within seconds for the next lucky diner, one of the benefits of all-day dining, but when we re-emerged into the daylight, we were still in awe.
Why we were so surprised considering The Double Red Duke’s accolades? But our lunch there was a meal we will remember for a very long time. This is not a concession, it’s a brilliant, fun and accomplished stand alone restaurant and we can’t wait to go back, shopping or no shopping.
The Double Red Duke, 50 Pingle Drive, Bicester OX26 6WD. Go to https://www.thebicestercollection.com/bicester-village/en/dine/double-red-duke/
