When Paul Welburn left Oxfordshire last year it was a big loss for our hospitality scene. Having won a Michelin star within nine months of opening at Oxford Kitchen in Summertown and then moving to The Swan in Islip (listed in the Michelin Guide in six months and 3AA rosettes within the year), Paul boosted our culinary offering immeasurably.
However, he has sadly since headed off to Cornwall with his new family, READ ABOUT IT HERE looking for a new challenge, and was approached by farmer Steve Oakes to set up Fern, a brand new restaurant on a farm outside Bodmin, which opened in October and was listed in the Michelin Guide nine weeks after opening.
An inauspicious location perhaps, as we wound our way down a farm track on the outskirts of town, popping out at a lofty, glass walled single storey building, already bustling inside. And before you even get out of the car you can feel the buzz around it. It’s like stumbling across a hidden secret.
without a doubt fern will become a destination restaurant. we can’t recommend it enough
Light, airy and modern inside, the chefs hard at work, waiting staff whirling around like dervishes, Fern is a welcoming and enticing space, pausing briefly to look around before snatching up our menus from the table avidly, keen to get started.
Because if you’ve had the pleasure of trying Paul’s food before, you’ll know the intense artistry and wizardry that goes into every component of his dishes, as he continually pushes the boat out in terms of his ambitions and creations. And with Heston protege Luke wiseman on board, the kitchen is set.
If you’ve had the pleasure of trying Paul’s food before, you’ll know the intense artistry and wizardry that goes into every component of his dishes
Now bread is always a great leveller in terms of where a meal is going, here home-made and served with a light, creamy, whipped clotted cream butter, , the crust was thick, chunky and sour, the bread soft and chewy. Game on.
The soft beef croquettes (£14) that followed were not only visually stunning; the dot of bright green wild garlic mayonnaise atop a light, bright orange carrot puree framing the slow cooked BBQ’d short ribs inside the hot, crispy casing, as we processed the continual layers of flavour.
it was the Kern custard creams with a blackberry ketchup that stopped us all in our tracks
But it was the Kern custard creams with a blackberry ketchup (£14) that stopped us all in our tracks; akin to cheese straw biscuits topped with a tart fruit filling, they were absolutely magnificent, and one of Paul’s trademark dishes, here adapted to incorporate the local Cornish produce he now reveres.
As for the triangular hash browns with taramasalata and cucumber (£14) – the gentle fish paste enlivened by the dill pickled cucumber dusted with seaweed powder, they were all about texture – the crunch, bite and softness evident amongst the piquant ingredients.
the triangular hash browns with taramasalata and cucumber were all about texture – the crunch, bite and softness evident amongst the piquant ingredients
There was a special of Wye Valley asparagus with pickled lemon, tiny weeny capers, and brown butter, and while the asparagus were fairly thin, the accruements did the talking.
Next up the BBQ’d slow-cooked octopus with black pudding (£20) mixed with barley, and a lemon and caper beurre noisette, which smacked you in the face with its vibrant flavours of sea and land, and talked about all the way home.
the BBQ’d slow-cooked octopus with black pudding, and a lemon and caper beurre noisette, smacked you in the face with its vibrant flavours of sea and land
The Bocastle sea trout cured in gin and tonic with a burnt blood orange dressing, dill emulsion, smoked almonds and a dusting of pickled red dulse (£21) said everything you need to know about Paul’s cooking and his artistry, his vision, the flavours speaking for themselves.
As for the confit sand carrot kebab (£21) glazed in pomegranate molasses and BBQ’d, served with harissa yoghurt on a spiced flatbread and sprinkled with devil powder, it also packed a mighty punch, and was arguably the dish of the night, amongst some mighty contenders.
‘Hard to share,’ my friend commented as we all dived in, a mantra that could be applied to the whole Fern menu in fact
On equal footing perhaps came the slow cooked pork collar with apple, dashi and morteau sausage (£30). Salt brined for 48 hours in a water bath and then marinaded in treacle, the dashi was sweet, smokey and salty with a real shine, the pork succulent alongside the tiny cubes of moreish Alsace sausage and fruit, and absolutely blew us away. ‘Hard to share,’ my friend commented as we all dived in, a mantra that could be applied to the whole Fern menu in fact.
The hispi cabbage with miso and Fern in-house crispy chilli dressing and a garlic aioli (£7), reminded me of a hotdog with its crispy, smokey components and disappeared without a trace.
As for the wine list, we were spoilt, the Cote de Rhone slipping down effortlessly. And yet the wine, food and service is all conducted seamlessly without any pomp and circumstance, and that’s the most magic thing about Fern – its lack of pretension while delivering on ever level.
that’s the most magic thing about Fern – its lack of pretension while delivering on ever level
Puddings were therefore a must – only two on the menu – a salted caramel custard sandwiched in ginger snaps, like a ganache, perched on a ginger Parkin puree, topped with with a Trewithen sorbet and grated lime (£12), and the toasted passionfruit parfait with mango sorbet, coconut mousse and a passionfruit caramel (£12), both of which defied all expectations, even if you’re not an exotic fruit kinda person.
We came to, as if released from a trance, gazing around us, marvelling at what they have created at Fern despite it being off the beaten track without a coastline or beach in sight, and safe in the knowledge that without a doubt this will become a destination restaurant for one and all.
we marvelled at what they’ve created at Fern despite it being off the beaten track without a coastline or beach in sight’
If you live in Cornwall lucky you, if not, next time you’re down don’t miss out because Fern is an unforgettable culinary experience and we can’t recommend it enough. And come summer, when you can sit outside, sipping a cocktail, and dining in the sunshine, there is literally nowhere you’d rather be.
Fern is at Pendewey Farm, Stoney Lane, Nanstallon, Nr Bodmin, PL31 2QX and open Wednesday-Sunday. Go to https://ferncornwall.co.uk
