Appearances can be deceptive and this is certainly true of The Bell in Ramsbury. Because while idyllic and full of warmth, bonhomie and locals, it’s the food that really shines, thanks to chef patron James Graham who runs it for the nearby Ramsbury Estate.
In terms of the perfect meeting point, the historic pub couldn’t be better situated. Just off the M4/Newbury interchange, its beautiful village location, numerous rooms, bar, separate cafe and series of dining spaces tick so many boxes.
But best of all is the food. Which is why we picked it for a Christmas reunion and night away, arriving as the afternoon darkened, in time for a quick G&T at the bar, the delicious gin hailing from Ramsbury Distillery.
Taken to see our room we were pleasantly surprised; the modern bedrooms spacious with ample beds, tasteful furnishings, a muted colour scheme, and all the amenities, a real treat.
As for the pub itself, it is stripped back and welcoming, with wooden beams and floorboards, twinkly lights, leather seats, colourful art, tartan window seats and log fires, all of which make you feel right at home, like easing off an uncomfortable pair of shoes.
Hugely popular with the locals (we now understand why) it was busy on a wintery Tuesday night, with everyone from the tennis team to older folks sneaking in for a pint and a chat – a village hub indeed.
But that shouldn’t deter from the brilliant work going on in the kitchen, thanks to James Graham who took over The Bell three and a half years ago. He’s a lovely, unassuming chap, but one glimpse at the menu led us to suspect there was more at play.
Everything is as it seems but chef patron James Graham always pushes the boat out just that little bit further
And his CV speaks for itself. Born in Brixham, he cheffed in London before heading to Oxford to work for Raymond Blanc at Petit Blanc and then Le Manoir. Cowley Manor Hotel, The Three Daggers at Edington, The Pointer in Brill followed as well as opening the award-winning Allium in Fairford which he ran for 10 years.
But here at The Bell, James aims to serve a more relaxed offering, so while everything is exquisitely handmade, and the menu exciting, it’s purposefully not highfalutin and the menu is really interesting – something for everyone with a few surprises for the more adventurous, numerous global dishes slipping in amongst the more traditional fare.
Cue the muhammara with bread crisps from the snack menu, although the partridge pakora with chapati and mango chutney was mighty tempting. The Middle Eastern spicy walnut and roasted red pepper dip delivered – smoky and sweet with just the right hit of chilli.
Then the lightly curried parsnip soup, which was so good – often harsh or unflavoured, this was so silky smooth and delicious I could have had a second helping. But then I couldn’t have tried the soft burrata with roasted Crown Prince squash, toasted seeds and oregano, sweet with squash, crunchy with seeds and tangy with fresh herbs, it was a delight.
The chicory salad with walnut emulsion, gorgonzola and pickled pear was another revelation, the pears pickled by James himself so they weren’t too vinegary but complemented the sharp cheese, bite of sugared walnuts and chicory. Everything is as it seems but James always pushes the boat out just that little bit further.
For mains there are pizzas (the pulled pork and the greek with lamb and feta sounded interesting), fish and chips, burgers and steak, but for the more adventurous think venison, plaice and lamb with freekah.
We opted for the intriguing celeriac cannelloni with hen of the woods (mushrooms) gem lettuce and miso dressing (£22), which appeared as a long roll of the homemade pasta stuffed with goodies, famed in the piquant vinaigrette. Really novel, dexterous and a lovely surprise for the vegetarians.
The steamed seabass with bok-choy, galangal, satay sauce and roasted peanuts (£24) was similarly Asian themed and yet presented beautifully, the fish cooked just so – soft and flakey.
How we managed dessert I’ll never know, but the treacle tart with berry compote and clotted cream (£8) had my name on it and nothing was holding me back. I was amply rewarded for my endeavours. But the apple and blackberry crumble, scattered with seed and lavished in custard (£8) was a fierce contender.
Staggering back to our rooms, unsurprisingly we fell into a deep sleep in the comfy beds, and on awakening realised that breakfast beckoned.
Still full from the night before it was hard to resist the delicious yoghurt, fruit and grains or the fresh fruit juice and pastries, although I declined a full English sadly.
My companion delved into the poached egg and avocado on sourdough with smoked salmon, with relish, setting us up for the day ahead.
And despite the drizzle, when we finally re-emerged into The Bell’s car park we were fully reinvigorated, refreshed and very pleased with ourselves for having picked The Bell at Ramsbury for such a pleasant night away. It’s our new favourite find so we’ll be back! To be recommended both for a meal or a stay!
The Bell at Ramsbury, The Bell at Ramsbury, The Square, Ramsbury, near Marlborough, Wiltshire. SN8 2PE. To book a room or a table go to https://thebellramsbury.com
