News that new head chef James Erasmus had been working his magic in the kitchens at The Feathered Nest has trickled through, but nothing prepared us for the extraordinary lunch we enjoyed at the Nether Westcote gastropub this week.
He’s a big name to draw in, James’ CV boasting everywhere from Michelin starred La Colombe in Cape Town to Londond’s award-winning The Ledbury, but then The Feathered Nest already has an excellent reputation for food.
You can see why he picked it, nestled on the Oxfordshire borders, the garden’s views stretching over the Cotswolds, dotted with sculptures, its tasteful restaurant and bar welcoming diners, its refined culinary air continuing under owner Adam Taylor.
‘The best meal we’ve had in a long time, James’ attention to detail is exceptional, his delivery impressive and skillset riveting. one to watch!’
But after their recent new head chef Rene Pinedo headed back to the Caribbean after a short tenure, it needed a much needed boost, and that’s exactly what James Erasmus is, a shot in the arm and just the stimulus they need.
Not that we realised until the warm Guinness soda bread with a blended homemade wild garlic butter and parsley dust arrived, pretty as a picture, and the convivial atmosphere around our table changed track, suddenly intensifying. We were onto something, meaning our menu choices became rather more prescient.
Faggots then, in this case venison from the Bathurst Estate (£15), succulent, juicy yet not overpowering, the spiced carrot choucroute, smoked prune and radicchio, unctuous, rich and hugely accomplished.
The cured chalk stream trout (£16) was another revelation, humble on the menu with celeriac, apple and horseradish and yet the accompanying sauce, thick with dill and buttermilk, poured in a stream of bright green and cream, which framed the pink delicate fish, made a huge impression – such a novel way to usurp its more popular smoked salmon cousin.
‘Only an acutely accomplished chef could make something so simple so memorable’
But it was the spring salad (£14) really took our breath away, so innocuous sounding – pea, leeks, radish, pumpernickel dressing and sunflower seeds, and yet it delivered on so many fronts – delicate to the nth degree, not only bursting with freshness, it was seasonality on a plate, little notes of tarragon and chervil, each vegetable earning its moment in the sun. Only an acutely accomplished chef could make something so simple so memorable.
Which meant the Wye Valley asparagus (£26) was a must for the mains served with green beans, pine nuts, hay baked potatoes, wild garlic and turnip brother, the latter poured on in a silky stream.
‘I was reluctant to share even a flake of the flame grilled monkfish tail with hispi cabbage , caraway and potted shrimp butter’
As was the flame grilled monkfish tail with hispi cabbage with caraway and potted shrimp butter (£36), again presented beautifully, the succulent fish sticky and sweet with a smoked fish stock, cider vinegar and apple juice reduction, the cabbage lathered in a moreish caraway mayo, the shrimp butter nestled between, sliced pickled walnuts enhancing. I was reluctant to share even a flake.
Until the pave of fallow deer (£32) arrived, resplendent with beetroot, plum, smoked bone marrow and bitter leaves, a striking dish dotted with tiny celeriac cubes, the gravy almost shiny. Absolute heaven.
Dessert was therefore a must, we weren’t leaving until we could see what James cold produce on the sweet front. And thank God we did or we’d have missed the piece de resistance, the Malva pudding (£12) – a South African version of a sticky toffee pudding, a little nod to James’ roots. We were in, especially as it was made with marmalade and served with a custard ice cream.
And what a delight it was, the Malva lighter than its English counterpart, bouncy but moist, the saucy sticky with that bittersweet orangey goodness, cut through by the sweet soft ice cream. Hard to share.
‘the piece de resistance, the Malva pudding – a South African version of a sticky toffee pudding – was a little nod to James’ roots’
The Feathered Nest After Eight (£14) was another necessity, a vision to behold, to the extent that you scarcely wanted to dig your spoon in, the chocolatey velvety layers rewarding you, the mint ice cream contrasting brilliantly.
As for the rhubarb & custard with stem ginger and olive oil (£14), it was a complete surprise – whipped custard mousse, forced Yorkshire rhubarb macerated in orange zest and syrup to create a compote, stem ginger ice cream, crumbled stem ginger cookies and stem ginger and olive oil syrup drizzled over the top. A fait accompli.
‘if I were you I’d get down there pronto while you can still get a table’
The best meal we’ve had in a long time, James’ attention to detail is exceptional, his delivery more than impressive and the skillset on display here riveting. James Erasmus is a keeper and we welcome him heartily into the Oxfordshire fold where he is bound to make a huge noise. So if I were you I’d get down there pronto while you can still get a table. One to watch.
The Feathered Nest is at Nether Westcote, Oxfordshire, OX7 6SD. Book at https://thefeatherednestinn.co.uk
