The reinvention of the bakery has been spearheaded by the likes of national giants Greggs and more locally the wonderful likes of Proof and Barefoot, taking on cafes, sandwich shops and tearooms with great gusto and finesse. So the introduction of Knead into the mix only aids to our sweet toothed penchant.
Set up by founders and patissiers John Hawes and Kris Biggs, Oxford is the fourth string to their burgeoning bow – Knead’s hype preceding it. EXCLUSIVE: Chocolate and orange tiffin? Focaccia with tallegio, chorizo, honey & thyme? The lowdown on KNEAD Bakery’s new site in Oxford
One look at their window explains why; heaving with colourful, novel and exciting cakes, buns, pastries, cakes, breads and sandwiches, stretching as far as the eye can see, it’s an intoxicating welcome.
It’s like an Aladdins cave, enticing you in, voyeurs keen to experience the sugary temptations for themselves. And boy did we succumb, starting with the savouries, spoilt for choice – the heritage tomato, pesto and goat’s cheese Danish beckoning, the huge Gloucestershire Spot sausage roll, light, fluffy, oily focaccia sandwiches groaning with thick slices of tomato, mozzarella and pesto and the vegan aloo saag pasty.
The bright, light, contemporary decor, and friendly staff headed up by assistant manager Sam Jones, only enhance the offering, the internal tables within all full.
The top quality ingredients are evident and KNEAD doesn’t hold back on the fillings. Even the slices of focaccia come heaving with olives, rosemary and sundried tomatoes, which we had to bag and take home.
But the savouries are really just there to what your appetite for the main event because the sweeter offerings are literally impossible to ignore – we felt like Odysseus tying himself to the mast to countermand the Sirens, and lost.
What to choose however was almost as excruciating – from croissants, brownies, cookies, cinnamon buns and doughnuts galore to the more complex raspberry and white chocolate gateaux, lemon meringue pie, mango and lime mousse, little financiers, macaroons, coffee and chocolate opera cake and peach melba tarts in the patisserie counter, to name but a few.
Arms behind our backs, we picked the Maple and pecan buns, their fellow raspberry and pistachio version, the almond croissant, and the strawberry Frasier doughnut which defied belief like a deconstructed Victoria sponge, thick with light cream and chunky sweet strawberries, and a chocolate doughnut which delivered on every level.
The pistachio and raspberry bun was piquant and drenched in syrup, whilst the almond croissant was scattered with nuts and filled with frangipane. It was all sublime, and only common decency prevented us from gorging further.
So yes a sugary wonderland of a bakery, well priced with great coffee and central location. What’s not to like? See if you can resist!
KNEAD Bakery is at 115 High Street, Oxford, OX1 4BXÂ https://kneadbakery.co.uk
