You get the impression that whatever Joanna Alani does, she does properly. So when she decided to give the villagers in Milton-Under-Wychwood somewhere to grab a decent cup of coffee, some fabulous cakes and a bite to eat, she surpassed all expectations.
Rise & Flour has been on our radar for some time, and the Easter holidays provided the perfect opportunity to pay it a visit. Situated in the bustling Groves Yard, amidst a pizzeria, art gallery, local brewery, interior designers, an architect and more shops and businesses opening soon, its 350 year old history is tangible.
And that continues in Rise & Flour, where a deep open well, now glassed over, is encased within and fragments of 200 year-old wallpaper is kept on display in the colourful interior.
Opened four years ago by Joanna, a Kiwi and now local resident, it’s the food that shines, both the menu and the resulting dishes novel, fresh beautifully presented and well executed.
So yes, you can get a really good fry up, bagels and baps as well as home-made sausage rolls, sourdough sandwiches and a quiche of the day, but there are some less stout offerings, which appealed.
And while innocuous sounding, the granola bowl (£8) was beautiful to behold and packed full of goodies. Take the fruit and nut granola itself, handmade on site using a blend of oats, golden syrup, almonds, dried fruits, dried coconut, pumpkin, sunflower and sesame seeds, beautifully roasted, it was crunchy and bursting with fruit and nuts.
Topped with Greek yoghurt, a piquant blackberry compote, fresh strawberries and local honey, it sung, the sourness of the compote balanced by the honey, the creamy yoghurt and the crunch of the granola. We wiped the plate clean.
The smashed avocado (£13) with toasted sourdough (all the bread is from Marks Cotswold Bakery), arrives with a scattering of feta, two Cacklebean poached eggs, basil and a pea & cashew pesto, with additional bacon should you so wish. And while this is now a universally common brunch menu option, here the addition of the pesto, chillis and chives, the eggs bursting with bright yellow yolks, it was not only tasty and filling but vibrant to behold.
But it was the specials board that really enticed us, and where Joanna’s team really get to flex their culinary muscles. From the pepper crusted salt beef brisket bagel with Dijonnaise, emmental and pickles, to giant beans with crispy bacon, a poached egg and parmesan (£14), there was lots on offer.
But it was the lebnah that really piqued our interest, served with toasted seeds and nuts, olives, a mixed leaf salad, chilli, lemon and dressing and sourdough (£13). The soft, sour Middle Eastern cheese made from strained yogurt, studded with sumac, dates, mixed sprouts and alfalfa, chilli oil and dense oily olives, produced a really intoxicating, unexpected and unusual dish, the dates providing notes of sweetness.
Some strong coffee (courtesy of Missing Bean) beautifully decorated by the barista, an iced vanilla latte, a Bakewell slice, mini egg cookie and the must-try Anzac cookie, completed our brunch. And of course we had to buy some granola and a pack of hot cross buns, again from Marks Cotswold Bakery, to take home.
As we left, the weekly market at Groves Yard was just being set up, customers arriving and leaving the many interesting businesses in the historic yard. It feels like a really forward thinking location, somewhere the local community can enjoy, visitors coming now from much further afield.
And with Rise & Dine’s monthly supper clubs to enjoy, and a new Rise & Talk series of enlightening lectures on the cards, Rise & Flour is not only enhancing the offering, but vastly over delivering on Joanna’s original quest to provide the locals with a decent cafe.
Rise & Flour is at The Elms, Shipton Rd, Milton-under-Wychwood Chipping Norton OX7 6JW. https://riseandflour.co.uk
