The Muddy Duck in Hethe near Bicester has experienced numerous incarnations, from first opening as a hugely successful gastropub back in 2012 thorough to its woodland reinvention just before Covid, its subsequent closure in 2023 due to staffing issues, and now its grand reopening with a Pan-Asian twist. EXCLUSIVE: ‘I’ve missed the buzz’ The Muddy Duck in Hethe near Bicester is back
The term Pan-Asian can send shivers down the spine, the hybrid freedom often abused, but in the hands of owner Nigel Harris it’s impeccable and based around Japanese cuisine.
As you know Japanese food is back in a big way, sushi’s revolution paving the way for sashimi and the likes of bao buns to sneak their way into our consciousness and onto our menus, and become a staple.
with the help of The Smoking Lobster on the Isle Of Wight, who’ve collaborated on The Muddy Duck’s menu, it’s executed properly
But with the help of The Smoking Lobster on the Isle Of Wight, who have collaborated on The Muddy Duck‘s menu, it’s executed properly here with a level of expertise rarely found in Oxfordshire. Fish is prevalent then, as is the way, but there is also a strident meat offering to look forward to.
For those who haven’t been, the restaurant space is as unique as the menu, filled with lanterns and plants, like a forest glade. The loos on the other hand are a masterclass in space technology. May be the force be with you!
the restaurant space is as unique as the menu, filled with lanterns and plants, like a forest glade
Either way it means there’s a palpable air of excitement when you venture into The Muddy Duck, despite its historic exterior, as the pub at the front continues unabated. It’s like venturing into a fairytale.
The service is excellent, lots of the staff hailing from Le Manoir and Soho Farmhouse, dishes appearing like magic from the open plan kitchen headed up by Jakab Balasz and Liam Wood, at the bottom of the stairs.
there’s a palpable air of excitement when you venture into The Muddy Duck
But could the food match the eclectic and eccentric setting? The expectation was there but could the chefs deliver or is this a case of the Emperor’s New Clothes?
We were silenced by the arrival of the Japanese Milk Bread with Miso Butter & Lobster Szechuan (£8); the glazed, sweet and salty bun so bouncy and light it could fly away, the dips the perfect introduction to what fusion here really means.
We were silenced by the arrival of the Japanese Milk Bread with Miso Butter & Lobster Szechuan
The edamame followed suit, here served a truffle & soy dressing (£7). I’m not usually a fan – all that effort and no reward – but here the grassy, buttery flavour was palpable, the sauce elevating them further.
Further unknowns followed – the Lo Bak Go – our waitress clarifying that they’re basically pumpkin and bacon cakes, a Chinese delicacy, but here topped with Katsuobushi – a dusting of fermented tuna – ensuring they were light, sweet and utterly addictive.
the tempura Ebi prawns furikake were An instant hit, the batter light and crispy, the prawns so soft and fresh they melted on the tongue
By now they had our complete attention, as the tempura Ebi prawns furikake with chilli dip (£12) hit the spot. An instant hit, the batter light and crispy, the prawns so soft and fresh they melted on the tongue, enhanced by the umami-rich Japanese rice seasoning, we lapped them up.
There are also numerous sharing plates on the menu, the Sashimi Platter (£45 for two, £67.50 for three) resplendent in its colours, textures and fishy flavours, the ultimate taste taste!
the Sashimi Platter was resplendent with colours, textures and fishy flavours, the ultimate taste taste!
Featuring some majorly high end fish, we tried yellow fin tuna (with a mango & kaffir lime salsa), Japanese hamachi (jackfish) with white soy, truffle & honey, some pickled daikon Isle of Wight line caught sea bass with yuzu & jalapeño, New Forest chalk stream trout with a wasabi teriyaki and some hand dived Orkney scallops with mandarin, ginger & chilli.
Apart from the obvious delicacies laid out in front of us it was fun to try a bit of everything, find our favourites, deliberate the pros and cons, enjoy the contrast and delight in the obvious quality of the seafood in front of us.
it was fun to try a bit of everything, find our favourites, deliberate the pros and cons, enjoy the contrast and delight in the obvious quality of the seafood in front of us
The maki roll selection offers a similar experience, the sushi coming in a variety of offerings from beef tartare to Szechuan lobster, teriyaki smoked unagi (a freshwater eel), and the mango & red pepper with kaffir lime & smoked soy for our vegetarian friends, each with a different accruement, the Apple & Wasabi with the unagi a particular favourite, the Avruga Caviar topping the beef a piquant treat, and the veggie option a surprising hit, although they all disappeared without a trace.
More mind-blowing treats appeared in the form of the Charsiu Iberico pork (Cantonese barbecue pork) (£13) with celeriac straw which was tender, sweet, spiced, the flakey meat packed with marinaded flavour. It was absolutely delicious.
As for the Miso Black Cod with white kimchi & ginger rice and a lotus root crisp, we couldn’t believe our luck
As for the Miso Black Cod (£17) with white kimchi & ginger rice and a lotus root crisp, we couldn’t believe our luck; the fish beautifully cooked and delicate, empowered by the thick marinade and hint of heat from the ginger.
But the whole Black Bean Bass (£29) was another big contender, elegant in its simplicity, the zinging ginger & black bean sauce layered around the whole fish.
with food of this quality we were like kids in a sweet shop
Perhaps it was a bit OTT to order the Koji aged Chateaubriand, lime and Szechuan butter king prawns, (for two) but here it had to be done, because with food of this quality we were like kids in a sweet shop.
It was a wise decision, because the slices from the generous piece of meat just melted in the mouth, the Koji’s rich umami flavour mimicking a dry-aged beef. We fought over every last morsel, only getting round to the juicy, fiery prawns afterwards.
the slices from the chateaubriand just melted in the mouth
The fusion side of The Muddy Duck meant that furikake Koffman fries with wasabi mayo (£5), Yuzu Slaw (£6), a generous portion of peanut noodles (£7), al dente wok fried broccolini (£8) and some steamed jasmine rice (£5) were also ours for the taking, which went down a treat, breaking up the gravitas of the meal.
It had been a dazzling culinary experience. Lulled into a false sense of security we doubted The Muddy Duck could impress us further? What else could they come up with? In one word dessert.
What else could they come up with? In one word dessert
Because the puddings pushed the level of expertise here even further and I will remember the first spoonful of the 70% Valhrona chocolate and miso nemesis for as long as I live.
All the desserts were transportive actually, the rum poached pineapple with vegan vanilla ice cream and lemon balm (£9) bringing a 1950s Palm Beach vibe. The green pandan like doughnuts with a caramel cremeaux (£8) were literally irresistible and surprisingly sophisticated considering their arid colour,, while the tiramisu with a miso cream and Mermaid spiced rum was immensely clever.
I will remember the first spoonful of the 70% Valhrona chocolate and miso nemesis for as long as I live
Others preferred the caramelised milk and pecan tart with a lemongrass diplomat cream (£10), with its crumbly base and dense toffee filling.
But that chocolate nemesis was something else. Nostalgic, thick, treacly, silky, the flavours changing with each bite, it was literally a moment to savour for ever.
it’s hard reinventing the wheel, and while Pan-Asian isn’t exactly a novelty, bringing it to an oxfordshire village pub with this level of proficiency, fun and showmanship, is pretty legendary
So yes pretty impressed. Massively impressed actually. Because it’s hard reinventing the wheel, and while Pan-Asian isn’t exactly a novelty, bringing it to an Oxfordshire village pub with this level of proficiency, fun and showmanship, is pretty legendary.
Throw in the unique setting, convivial atmosphere and the originality of the whole Muddy Duck experience and you’ve got to hand it to them. Because they know if you’re going to do something, do it properly.
if you fancy something entirely different and original, an assault to all your senses, and a gastronomic treat, head down to The Muddy Duck
So if you fancy something entirely different and original, an assault to all your senses, and a gastronomic treat, head down to The Muddy Duck. You’ll never diss Pan-Asian again.
Bear in mind The Muddy Duck is closed from Monday – Wednesday and open Thursday, Friday and Saturday, whilst on Sunday there is a ‘10 Plates. One Sunday‘ offer for £48 per person.
The Muddy Duck, Main St, Hethe. OX27 8ES https://www.themuddyduckpub.co.uk
