The new sign hangs in pride of place outside the newly renovated The Fox in Middle Barton, ready for the grand opening tomorrow (Saturday 18).
Electricians and builders are swarming everywhere, the new wooden seating framing the huge garden, is being sanded, while the bar is stocked.
‘we want it to be a pub with a kitchen not a restaurant with a bar’
Sat resplendent in the middle of the hustle and bustle are new owner Tony O’Sullivan, new head chef Richard Galli, yes that Richard Galli, the Executive Chef at Claridge’s until a few weeks ago, and sommelier supremo Yohann Pinol, who between them have not only pledged to bring the historic village pub back to life, but to put it centre stage on Oxfordshire’s culinary map.
What they are also adamant about is that The Fox stays a pub, somewhere locals can come and have a pint with some fish and chips, as well as the foodies chasing Richard’s incredible repertoire and kudos.
they are adamant that The Fox stays a pub, somewhere locals can come and have a pint with some fish and chips, as well as the foodies chasing Richard’s incredible repertoire
“Essentially we want it to be a pub with a kitchen not a restaurant with a bar,” Tony explains.
Which is all well and good but bringing in a name like Richard Galli, and sommelier Yohan Pinol, must mean that the offering is going to be somewhat elevated?
And of course it will be, but Richard Galli’s job now is to find the perfect balance between the two without alienating anyone. “We want to do things a bit differently and make an impression, but we also want the experience at The Fox to be fun. It’s not going to be fine dining. The quality of the ingredients and suppliers will be second to none, but we aren’t going to charge crazy prices because we want to appeal to everyone,” the 43 year-old explains.
‘We want to do things a bit differently and make an impression, but we also want the experience at The Fox to be fun’
Which is why Richard will be introducing an all day classics menu, and a short, daily changing – five starters, five mains, four puds – a la carte style menu where seafood will feature prominently, at both lunch and dinner.
“The classics will have all the essentials – pies, burgers, fish and chips – because we all love the classics, as long as they are done well! But customers can also come here for cote de boeuf, a whole leg of lamb and grilled lobsters, with some great wine.”
“So I’m not going to stick to one type of cuisine because The Fox is all about having fun and trying something a bit different,” he says
Tony has plans to extend his range of pubs under Wine Devil and has already taken on The Farriers Arms in Toddenham
“Because it’s not about my ego, its about what our guests want to eat, so the first two months will be key to discovering what people really want to experience.”
Tony has plans to extend his range of pubs under Wine Devil and has already taken on The Farriers Arms in Toddenham, which he says will be ‘next level’, but while the planners are hard at work there, it’s all systems go at The Fox, Richard brought in to oversee the 4-6 planned pubs which will open over the next 5-10 years.
So why would Tony, a businessman with projects all over the world, go into pubs and why now? “because I love pubs and I love bringing them back to life and getting projects off the ground. But I also love food and wine and I couldn’t find anywhere different around here so thought I’d open my own,” he says.
“the first two months will be key to discovering what people really want to experience”
The adjacent coffee shop will open there in September, with further coffee shops planned around Chipping Campden, Stow-on-the-Wold and Moreton-in-Marsh. “what can I tell you? I love coffee as well,” Tony explains.
As for Richard, a big change then for someone who managed 130 chefs at Claridge’s? “Yes but I’m really enjoying it. It’s been a stressful 10 years, so it about toning that down and I already feel more relaxed,” he smiles. “I’ve worked in smaller restaurants before but this is my first pub and I’m already really enjoying it. It will be lovely to be cooking again instead of managing and delegating.
“But I am also confident that the food we are going serve will be delicious and tasty. But at the end of the day The Fox is a pub, not a restaurant, and we want people to be able to stroll in, have a beer, look at the menu and see where it goes from there.”
With 60 covers inside and a further 50 outside, plus a private dining room upstairs for 10, the options are numerous, those in the private dining room able to experience Richard’s tasting menus if required.
‘It will be lovely to be cooking again instead of managing and delegating’
“The Fox is a blank canvas which we will tweak over the next few months and we are going to try our best to be flexible and prioritise the locals, because they are the bread-and-butter of any pub. We want it to be relaxed and fun because pubs are the hubs of every community and that’s our priority.”
Wine wise the world is your oyster, and with Yohann Pinol in charge of the wine list, he promises some really exciting and different wines, including rare premium wines for those who want to delve in.
Either way, bringing a historic, derelict pub, defunct for four years, back from the brink with this level of expertise and personality, in the current climate, can only be applauded. And with a Guinness Nitrosurge pouring the perfect pint in 14 seconds, how can you resist?
But come tomorrow, you’ll be able to see for yourself!
Full review to follow!
The Fox in Middle Barton is at 27 Enstone Rd, Middle Barton, Chipping Norton OX7 7BL. Book at thefox@thewinedevil.uk or ring 01689208972.
