It was a spur of the moment thing. We fancied a Thai, didn’t want to go into Oxford, and then remembered a recommendation for Suwanna in Witney.
‘After 17 years in business SUWANNA is still thriving for a reason’
We made a booking but the traffic was appalling and understandably when we arrived our table had gone. Managing to squeeze us in right next to the toilets, a few inches from our fellow diners, it was going to be an intimate night.
However, the place was heaving, always a good sign, our Thai beers still arrived promptly and the menu looked promising with all the usual favourites and some more unusual dishes. Chiang Mai Sausage anyone? Tempting considering they were apparently packed full of lemon grass, galangal and lime leaves, but it was the soup we were after, and luckily SUWANNA had both Tom Kha and Tom Yam on the menu.
It’s really hard to find anywhere that makes Thai soups just right – TOM YAM is a spicy, hot and sour soup made with lemongrass, galangal, lime leaves, mushroom and chilli. It needs to be hot, rich and strong enough to make an impact without overwhelms the ingredients, (in our case additional king prawns). Plus it should be utterly addictive, and at Suwanna it delivered on every level.
Tom Kha is much more creamy and fragrant, but so often frustratingly watered down and insipid. It may be milder with coconut milk but it still needs to have a kick from the lemongrass, galangal, lime leaves, mushroom and chilli. When done properly it’s like heaven in a bowl. and once again Suwanna came up trumps.
Suddenly the awkward table and ability to join in with our neighbouring table’s conversation fell away. We drank every last spoonful and sat back in awe. Was this a fluke or had we stumbled upon a gem at SUWANNA?
The massaman was a test, the last one we ate was in Thailand and blew our minds. My husband wasn’t keen. He wanted a Thai green curry and the massamam just looked like a meat stew on the menu pic. We ordered one anyway.
The massamam was deep and sweet with flavour, pungent with cinnamon and cumin, and thick with with coconut milk, peanuts, potatoes, and tender beef. Spot on.
They’d sold out of green Thai curry, (yes really), so we went red. Again a big swerve but we were there for everything that Suwanna threw at us. And it paid off.
The red curry, which differs from its green cousin in terms of the colour of the chillis, is less sweet and more about the flavours of garlic, galangal, and lemongrass than basil, coriander and lime. So quite different but kinda the same.
Both were served with sticky rice which was casually served in a plastic bag inside a wicker basket, but excellently executed, not overcooked or sludgy as is so often the case, but still light.
Dessert next then – our go to – pineapple or banana fritters – another must, only to be told Suwanna don’t serve them anymore. Why not? Because not enough people ordered them. “I’d have them every time I come here” I said. “Obviously you didn’t come here very often,” our waitress smiled.
It was a fair point but we will now. Not that they need any more customers. After 17 years in business SUWANNA is still thriving for a reason, and as good Thai restaurants are as rare as hen’s teeth this is one to cherish, despite its old school appearance. The real deal!
Suwanna is at 44 Market Square, Witney:Â https://www.suwannathairestaurant.co.uk
