News that French restaurant Fleur De Lys in Bampton was being closed and converted into classic village pub The Market Tavern EXCLUSIVE: Sneak peek at new village pub The Market Tavern in Bampton, reopening on Saturday in former Fleur De Lys after full refurb, set the cat amongst the pigeons. Put it this way, there was a lot riding on it being a success.
But judging by the packed dining room on a mid-week evening, word-is-out that head chef Stuart Banks has stayed in the kitchen, with Will Morris as GM, reflecting their enduring reputations.
with a new AA rosette to show for it (and 4 stars for the hotel) we’re not the only ones who were impressed
The revamp has certainly helped, the bar area much more welcoming, and the retro old-fashioned dining room perfectly suited for those popping-into for a quick bite to eat, hotel guests relishing the food, date nights in full swing, and family celebrations. The ideal hybrid.
The menu is simple – four starters, four classics, four mains, and yet it’s still hard to choose, all the dishes sounding delectable – we could have happily tried each and every one.
Even the snacks and cocktail selection were enticing – the negroni then, which was as strong and vibrant as you’d hope, and the focaccia with beef dripping butter (£4) to set the scene. The specials board offered Cornish mussels with cider, bacon and cream as a starter or main (£11/£22), the smaller portion generous, ultra creamy, rich with onions and garlic and brimming with sauce (so often by the time you get to the bottom of the bowl there’s none left).
The starter portion of mushroom risotto, complete with egg yolk perched beautifully on top, with crispy sage, parmesan and dill was actually vegan but you wouldn’t notice, what it lacked in creaminess, it made up for the in the richness of porcini, strength of stock and notes of herbs.
But the big crowd-pleaser was the double cheese cheddar soufflé with spinach and mustard cream (£11) which defied belief; dense but light, unusually strong with cheese (a plus), the ample mustardy sauce and silky spinach all combining to lift the spirits, my fellow dinners, forks at the ready, kept diving in.
We went more mainstream for mains; burgers and steaks all round – the Market Tavern cheeseburger, (see main pic) with burger mayonnaise, garnish and fries (£17), which came towering with goodies but properly juicy, running down your fingers. The chips were also excellent – thin, piping hot, salty and crispy. Boy were they good.
As for the steak, the meat hailing from the local butchers Patrick Strainge came with chips (chunky), fries (thin) or a Greek salad (abstemious) (£22), plus of course peppercorn sauce or garlic butter. We went bareback, relishing the sheer taste of the beef, perfectly cooked.
My daughter had the veggie burger (there is also a vegan option) which packed as much of a punch as its meat counterpart, with all the same accruements.
All of which conspired against us trying pudding, but one look at the dessert menu instantly changed our minds. Who can resist a creme brulee (£7), which also featured on Stuart’s French menu as well, and a portion of sticky toffee pudding (£8). Top-tappingly pleasing, the creme brulee delivered on every front, while the sticky toffee pudding was thick with fruit and spice and sweet with sweet, rich sauce.
By the time we finished, the entire dining room was deserted, people eat early now it seems, or perhaps we were just too entrenched. But either way it was an enormously satisfyingly meal. As it turns out The Market Tavern has already made its mark, hitting the sweet spot just right. And with a new AA rosette to show for it (and 4 stars for the hotel) we’re not the only ones who were impressed.
The Market Tavern, Bridge Street, Bampton, OX18 2HA. https://www.themarkettavernbampton.com
