Why had we left it so long so revisit and watch the sweeping Cherwell river, the punters languidly passing by full of beautiful young people laughing, flirting and enjoying the summer? Having wound down the innocuous path off Bardwell Road – one of the most quintessential Oxford restaurants awaits – Cherwell Boathouse, in North Oxford, near Summertown.
And don’t its customers know it, not only packing out the restaurant for its waterfront views, but the additional verandah-like terrace on the other side was also rammed to the rafters with a sophisticated clientele, more al fresco perhaps, but perfectly suited to our clement summer temperatures.
But as with so many of these long standing establishments, the question is whether Cherwell Boathouse has still got it, or is it it resting on its laurels?
Appearances would suggest the former; couples, friends and family, enjoying the views as romantic dinners, get togethers and special occasions panned out before us, but then it’s never been low end.
Once we’d settled in – the service is superb by the way – we realised that we could easily squander the night away just soaking up the atmosphere, people watching and the company – focus was needed! Eating was on the agenda!
Luckily the menu is quite succinct; six starters, six mains and a Wednesday steak night menu, but it still wasn’t easy to decide. The others deliberated for a while before opting for the pork terrine with plum chutney and crisp bread (£7.75) and the day boat mackerel with smoked cod’s roe emulsion and a kohlrabi slaw (£7.75), all of which sounded sublime. But one look at the gazpacho offering and I was committed – the perfect summer antidote.
Beautifully executed, the mackerel was especially beautiful, if minimal, the taramasalata domed and rich but not overbearing, the fish succulent, the salad juicy and crisp.
The pate was equally as successful – chunky, textured and dense, offset by the sour fruit chutney and crisp bread. The only negative was perhaps the lack of accruements with the gazpacho, none of the usually garlicky, oiliness or croutons (£7.75) perhaps due to its vegan status, but the Spanish would cope – only the bread wouldn’t make the grade.
Then the chuck eye steak with mushroom, tomato, triple cooked chips and a beef hollandaise sauce, priced at £25, which seemed great value. The cut is often misunderstood and palmed off as a ‘poor man’s ribeye’, and while not as tender, the chuck eye makes up for it by packing in the flavour.
The breast of chicken with orzo pasta, aged parmesan, baby spinach, lime and caper basil (£23.25) was another sumptuous offering, fluctuating between a buttery creaminess and the sharpness of the citrus and capers.
The steamed monkfish with charred baby gem, aubergine puree, chickpeas and dashi broth (£30.75) however was the main of the night, the chunky, sweet but delicate fish full of flavour, the aubergine like babaganoush, the lettuce smokey, the dashi sweet. Really top notch.
The more abstemious marinated mediterranean vegetables with feta and chimichurri sauce was also surprisingly vibrant, and packed a punch.
But it was the pudding that really took our breath away – the buttermilk pannacotta with raspberry, rose petal and bread ice cream, sending us into spasms of delight. The cherry delice with pistachio and a chocolate sorbet (£7.75) was a firm contender and certainly as aesthetically stunning, while the bitter chocolate tart with Chantilly cream was more straight forward but equally as delicious, and perfectly executed.
Throw in some stunning rosé (the wine list here is renowned) and we were set for a night to remember, and as dusk fell and night beckoned, a couple of swans glided past in perfect symmetry, as if to ensure we’d dotted all the Is and crossed the Ts.
So in a word? Memorable. And yes maybe on the luxurious end of eating out. But if you want a blow out and a night to remember, or just a bottle of wine with a view to die for then Cherwell Boathouse fits the bill. The swans are thrown in for free!
Cherwell Boathouse is at 50 Bardwell Road, Oxford, England OX2 6ST https://cherwellboathouse.co.uk
