The Mole Inn had me at the first forkful of mash. The fact that the accompanying pie was absolutely spot on with its rich, crumbly pastry was a bonus, but that potato, more like a pomme puree – thick, creamy and dense, lightly flecked with herbs and butter – made my week. Lock me in a cupboard with a bowlful and a spoon and I’ll die happy.
‘We know we have to build The Mole’s reputation back up but we have the skillset and we like a challenge’
What that mash demonstrated was that new chef patron Valentin Raileanu can cook. He knows what he’s doing, and as our lunch played out, in terms of intent, his food does the talking.
It’s early days yes, having only just taken on the historic hostelry in Toot Baldon recently with his other half Kara, but the signs are good and they are really keen to make it work.
new chef patron Valentin Raileanu can cook. He knows what he’s doing, and as our lunch played out, in terms of intent, his food does the talking
Valentin is from Moldova, and Kara from Ukraine. They met at catering school in Harrogate and have worked all over the country since, most recently at The Ash Tree in Ashendon where they made quite the name for themselves.
If our lunch is anything to go by, we are all in for a treat! Keen to ensure The Mole remains a pub rather than a fine dining gastropub, the menu offers everything from burgers and fish & chips to beef tartare, house-cured salmon, a rack of Cornish lamb or their signature Chateaubriand for two.
Keen to ensure it’s still a pub rather than a fine dining gastropub, the menu offers everything from burgers and fish & chips to a rack of Cornish lamb or Chateaubriand
But it has a mean specials board where Valentin can flex his gastronomic muscles and as we discovered his execution is superb.
Everything is made on site from the bread to the pies, so ingredients are very important here, so his fish and shellfish comes from Brixham and his beef from Scotland.
Everything is made on site from the bread to the pies
Which is why our scallops with garlic butter, fresh lemon and golden panko breadcrumbs were so delectable – fresh, bouncy and generous, the sauce simple.
And the baked camembert with crispy sourdough for two, a surprising retro throwback perfectly cooked and lovely and gooey but perhaps some cornichons, chutney or jottings of rosemary and garlic in the cheese would have heightened it?
The roast duck leg with a white bean and chorizo cassoulet was equally as delicious, the meat generous and falling off the bone, the bean stew rich and thick
Then the aforementioned aged cheddar and caramelised onion pie, buttered mash, seasonal greens, rich gravy (£18.50) which we have already fawned over and will happily do so again.
The roast duck leg with a white bean and chorizo cassoulet (£24.50) was equally as delicious, the meat generous and falling off the bone, the bean stew rich and thick.
And the pan roasted sea bass with saffron rice, king prawns, garden peas, garlic and parsley butter (£26) was more unusual, the rice like a thick, creamy, garlicky risotto; punctuated with the prawns, the beautifully cooked fish laid on top.
Dessert wise, we managed a slice of the cherry pie and vanilla ice cream, a Moldovan tradition with a braided pastry top
Dessert wise, we were pretty full but managed a slice of the cherry pie and vanilla ice cream, a Moldovan tradition with a braided pastry top, which was delicious but could have done with more whole fruit in the filling.
Word is they do a great Sunday lunch at The Mole as well, but anyone wanting to reignite one of Oxfordshire’s beloved pubs and put their heart and soul into it deserves some credit, and more customers!
Anyone wanting to reignite one of Oxfordshire’s beloved pubs and put their heart and soul into it deserves some credit, and more customers
“We haven’t been very busy but we know we are ready. We are happy to be here and are ready to show what we can do. We know we have to build The Mole’s reputation back up but we have the skillset and we like a challenge,” the couple tell us after our meal
“We made our mark at The Ash Tree in Ashendon near Aylesbury, and we worked really hard there, but we’ve always wanted our own out and we fell in love with The Mole as soon as we saw it. So this is our big chance. We want to do better and be better, and bring something new to Oxfordshire’s pub scene and the area.
“We just want people to come and see us and give us a chance. We are new and totally different and we have a great reputation. So come and have a look and decide for yourself.”
We’re already sold. See you there soon.
The Mole Inn, Toot Baldon https://www.themoleinn.org
