We weren’t expecting a great deal to be honest, South Indian restaurants sprouting up ten to a penny at the moment, the name Crispy Dosa Didcot not suggesting anything out of the ordinary, or inspiring much confidence.
Which meant that on arriving at the central Didcot restaurant just opposite the Cornerstone theatre, we were taken totally by surprise. Because not only is the huge restaurant (on the site of the former Wildwood on Station Road) beautiful to behold, but welcoming, enticing even, a stunning venue.
But the wow factor is not enough to make a business work, or ensure return footfall, the food has to do the talking, and here it did this in droves.
In fact we dined like kings, again unexpectedly, transfixed by the menu and its endless options. Where to start – the variety in each of the sections almost overwhelming – the dosas for example a whole page of options.
The thalis were equally as extensive, and as it was the Pongal festival, we were in luck with even more offerings to enjoy.
There were four of us dining, which meant we could try a wide variety of dishes, first up the puris – the dahi (potato, onions, yoghurt, ground spices, chutney and sev) to be specific (£6.99) – the puris puffed up and fried in hot oil, their hollow interior perfect for the mix of tamarind, sweet yoghurt and mint drizzled on the spicy potato mix within, topped with the sev – a thin crispy noodle – which you can eat in one delicious bite.
Then a dosa – the paneer masala (£12.99) – served in a triangle rather than a cylinder, the crispy pancake (a fermented batter of rice and black lentils) stuffed with a blended mix of onions, tomatoes, spices and the Indian cheese, ripped off in chunks and dunked in the four dips – a dry coconut chutney, a thick, rich sambar made with lentils, a mint chutney, and a tomato and potato chutney. It was worth the trip alone and we will be returning for another as soon as is humanly possible.
A dish of Indo-Chinese Manchurian (£9.99) – paneer in a tangy, sweet and savoury spicy sauce, which was so addictive and chilli hot, impossible to resist.
But then the thalis arrived and our attention was immediately diverted. What a spread! If you’ve never tried one before it’s a great way to try lots of different dishes, tastes and flavours – served in tiffins arranged on a big silver platter, topped with a popadom, poori (like an Indian tortilla) and a Kerala Pappadam, puffed up like a calzone.
We had two – the Pongal Raja Virundhu (£15) which had 19 components – from curries, breads, rice and pickles to pudding – to celebrate a festival that celebrates the end of the winter.
It was composed of vadai (crispy, dense patties), a thengai paruppa thuvuyal dhal, sambar, a Pineapple Rasam – a tangy, sweet, and spicy South Indian soup which we loved. The Bonda Mor Kuzhambu – a flavourful South Indian yogurt-based curry with small, deep-fried lentil dumplings simmered in a spiced buttermilk gravy.
Plus the Urulai Kara Kari a spicy, dry South Indian potato side dish coated in chilli, mustard and garlic, like a rosti. It goes on, the Keerai Kootu – spinach cooked with lentils in a ground coconut paste, like a stew, and absolutely delicious.
The Thalicha Mooru is a simple, tangy, and refreshing buttermilk curry, made by with mustard, curry leaves, ginger, and chilies in coconut oil with whisked yogurt or buttermilk, coloured with turmeric.
And then the desserts: Sweet thirasam patties, Chakkarai Pongal and rava kara pongee sweet rices and carrot khee – a puree spiced with cardamoms and almonds.
Enough for a taste of everything, but then the Bombay thali arrived too – served all day and more familiar (£13.99), with less components compared to others on the menu – chapati, chana masala, paneer butter masala, Dahl, rice, salad, pickle and sweet, which gave us a good comparison.
You might have noticed by now that it is a veggie/vegan restaurant, but take it from us, whether you eat meat or not, Crispy Dosa Didcot is an all-out dining extravaganza.
It’s a joy to recount our mains; a dab of this, a taste of that, narrowing in on our favourites, ordering more, scooping it up with the breads and poppodums, finishing with the Gulab Jamun – like donuts soaked in syrup, and the sweet cardamom flavoured rice.
The highlights? Apart from the overall experience, we loved the Urulai Kara Kari potato, the rich Keerai Kootu spinach, the Pineapple Rasam, the paneer butter masala (we ordered more), and overall there was’nt much left by the time we’d finished and reluctantly headed home.
But not before we’d spoken to the two brothers behind Crispy Dosa Didcot running the family business, Sunny and Sagar. Opened five months ago, it is a chain, with 17 branches around the country. But you’d never know. It feels independent, there was nothing chainy about it.
So why Didcot? “We both live here so wanted to open a family business in our home town. It is nerve racking introducing a veggie/vegan restaurant here but the feedback has been incredible. Everyone who’s just wandered in to try us out has really enjoyed it.”
And with plans for a breakfast buffet being implemented soon, and news spreading fast about the new kid on the block, Crispy Dosa Didcot deserves to be a success, because restaurants like this don’t come around very often, especially in Didcot town centre.
Crispy Dosa Didcot is at Unit 19, 8 Station Rd, Didcot OX11 7LL. Go to https://www.crispydosa.com/outlets/crispy-dosa-didcot/
