The Bird In Hand is in the middle of nowhere, literally. Perched on the side of the road in Whiteoak Green near Witney, you’d never know it was there. And yet everyone does. For good reason.
First of all the 17th century pub is a beautiful place; enormously welcoming, the bright, immaculate interior both relaxing and traditional, its wooden beams and ancient stone walls framed with comfortable chairs, bright coloured furnishings, art and tables full of diners happily tucking in on a Friday lunchtime.
Secondly it’s a family run business under the helm of Andy and Julia Dearie and their son Tom, Andy heading up the kitchens. They’ve been in situ for the past seven years and obviously take great pride in the business.
Which means that The Bird and Hand is run like clockwork, waiting staff whirling with delicious offerings concocted in the busy kitchens, and yet it’s still gloriously informal, our waitress Maya friendly and professional.
Seated in the windows, weak sunshine pouring through, we had already succumbed to the Bird In Hand vibe, and then we saw the menus. Having only popped in for a sandwich, when faced with the lunch time menu, the a la carte and the daily specials on the board, choosing was nigh on impossible.
In the end we compromised by going all out and treating ourselves. It’s that kind of place. Why waste a golden opportunity?
We ordered the wild mushroom arancini with a wild mushroom and cream sauce (£12.95), and the roasted heritage beetroot with goats cheese cream, basil and hazelnuts (£11.95) expecting some good pub grub. But the sophistication of the plates that arrived was off the scale; the crispy hot arancini nestled in a thick sauce like a soup made with dried wild mushrooms, the rice balls packed full of flavour. Exceptional.
The beetroot was another surprise, sharing the glory with soft dabs of mild cheese, sun-dried tomatoes, herbs, al dente beetroot, pea shoots and the crunch of hazelnuts, so many textures to enjoy.
But it was the pie that cleared the dance floor; steak, mushroom and ale, with a red wine jus, paprika chips and veg (£25.95), as recommended by our waitress, and infamous in these parts.
A vision to behold, the gleam of that gravy proving there was a master at work in the kitchens. The pies are all made in-house, the suet pastry encasing the rich, silky chunks of meat, the perfect accompaniment to the piping hot chips, pert peas and broccoli.
And despite the winning pear, blue cheese and rocket sandwich on toasted sourdough with honey, pear and walnut chutney, which was juicy, salty and gooey, nothing could beat that pie.
Until dessert that is, the rich chocolate mousse with strawberries, strawberry sauce and whipped cream hitting the spot, the spoon sucking against the dark chocolate, the macerated strawberries and white chocolate tuile in the form of a triple clef.
And while the food was exceptional, what’s even more refreshing is that they don’t make a big song and dance about it, but just go about their business and let the clientele sit back and enjoy themselves.
Had we just stumbled into the perfect pub we mused as we drove home afterwards? Maybe there’s no such thing, but The Bird In Hand comes pretty damn close. But don’t just take our word for it. Try it out for yourselves.
The Bird in Hand is at Whiteoak Green, Witney. https://birdinhandinn.co.uk
