Maintaining a Michelin star for 17 years is an incredible achievement , all adjectives seeming trite in comparison with the feat itself. But alongside all the accolades comes an enormous pressure to keep up the highest of standards long after the initial euphoria has abated.
Mike North, has not only achieved this, but continues to bring his A game to the kitchens at The Nut Tree in Murcott with the same passion and dedication, week in, week out, alongside his wife Imogen and their stellar team.
So lunch there is always a treat, our excitement growing as we neared the thatched inn, the elegant restaurant nestling within.
The Nut Tree is not just a gem but a shining example of how culinary endeavour and longevity pays off
Mike and Imogen have done much so update The Nut Tree since our last visit, the garden bursting with produce to use in the restaurant, the patio resplendent with beautiful outdoor furniture, al fresco dining now another enticing option, the sliding doors to the dining room open to catch the last of the summer rays. It’s a really personal space.
Inside, the aged hostelry is still in evidence, the rarified wooden bar framed by original beams a hub of customers being served drinks while they await their tables, their anticipation palpable.
The fillet of beef hails from Aubrey Allen, knives slicing through like butter, accompanied by a bright, sweet pea puree, pickled trompette mushrooms, Madeira sauce boasting just the right shine, generous slices of truffles perched on top
But if this all sounds rather exclusive, the Norths also make huge efforts to include the local community with an extensive pub classics menu and numerous events to keep everyone happily fed and watered.
But while the pub classics menu is hugely enticing – think beef brisket, smoked haddock mornay, blackberry and apple crumble to name but a few – most diners immediately head to the taster menu, an offering Mike is resolute about, despite the current penchant for sharing plates.
while the pub classics menu is hugely enticing – think beef brisket, smoked haddock mornay, blackberry and apple crumble – most diners immediately head to the taster menu
He understands that as a destination venue, people want to dine in style and push the boat out – that there is still room for the eight courses they offer, and judging by our fellow diners all enjoying their Saturday lunch, he’s spot on.
Immediately drawn to the Nut Tree breads with Ampersand butter https://oxinabox.co.uk/the-man-making-gold-out-of-butter-right-here-in-oxfordshire-and-his-michelin-starred-fans/, it’s so tempting to go all out with such an incredible array of breads wafted under your nose, but don’t overdo it – there’s so much more to come.
it’s so tempting to go all out with such an incredible array of breads wafted under your nose, but don’t overdo it – there’s so much more to come
Like the tiny cup of Nut Tree Garden pumpkin soup with curry oil, pumpkin seeds and chives – light with foam, rich and sweet with gourd, crunchy with seeds and herbs, enhanced with just the right hit of spice.
Or the the tart of lightly pickled red cabbage and beetroot with horseradish ice cream – beautiful to behold, honestly joyful to eat, the tart light and crisp, the purple veg diced into tiny squares, pungent and earthy, the vibrant pea shoots, the creamy hit of horseradish, the cold reality of the ice cream, so delicate.
Mike is a stickler for authentic ingredients farmed correctly, his garden and local provenance a prime example, so he insists on Osier caviar with his fillet of beautifully cooked sea bass, balanced on top of the juicy pearl barley which has just the right bite, enhanced with a creamy, piquant vermouth sauce and a seaweed crisp.
The fillet of beef hails from Aubrey Allen – medium rare – the knife slicing through like butter, a bright, accompanied by sweet pea puree, pickled trompette mushrooms, the Madeira sauce boasting just the right shine and gloss, generous slices of truffles perched on top. Minimalist in its presentation, the flavours here are allowed to speak for themselves.
You can swap in any of the veggie dishes (from their own a la carte menu) so we also tried the Cashel blue cheese soufflé, dotted with pickled walnuts, the cheese sweet, the walnuts tart, the mustard sauce creamy with a kick, some wonderfully bold and strong flavours in evidence amongst the soft soufflé mix.
The cheese course is optional, but knowing their proclivity with ingredients we delved in, the Witheridge from Nettlebed Creamery, French Langres and Italian Tallegio particular favourites, complete with homemade chutney and quince membrillo cubes, home-made crackers and thinly toasted raisin bread.
Luckily the infamous Chocolate Egg, which remains on the menu by public demand, (there would be a riot if they removed it!) isn’t too filling. Served in an actual egg shell, layered with a strong, thick, sumptuous chocolate mousse, then sticky salted caramel and topped with an almond Chantilly and popping candy that sparkles in your mouth, you have to engineer your teaspoon right to the bottom to make sure you enjoy all three layers.
All polished off with the Nut Tree Garden apple soufflé; the apple perfectly soft and sour against the sweet, sugary soufflé topped with a sharp blackberry sorbet and a Calvados custard.
A lost afternoon indeed, bathed in the glow of The Nut Tree’s unique individuality. There’s nowhere else like it
Curiously, despite the myriad of complex and elegant food we had just enjoyed, we weren’t overly full and uncomfortable after such a lavish meal, although the cheese was perhaps a push.
A lost afternoon indeed, bathed in the glow of The Nut Tree‘s unique individuality. There’s nowhere else like it. So if you haven’t had the pleasure, what are you waiting for? The Nut Tree is not just a gem but a shining example of how culinary endeavour and longevity pays off. Plus it’s absolutely unforgettable!
Tasting menu lunch £95, dinner £115. £65 accompanying wine flight. https://nuttreeinn.co.uk
