Lula’s has been introducing Ethiopian and Eritrean food to Oxford since 2022, attracting an increasing stream of loyal and impressed customers when it opened near Oxford station.
So when founder Lula Kinnaird heard that Oxford’s Covered Market was looking to expand its culinary offering, it seemed serendipitous. EXCLUSIVE: ‘It’s something completely different’ The veggie/vegan Lula’s Ethiopian Cafe & Deli to open this summer in Oxford’s Covered Market
Cue her new unit there which launched this summer and judging by the diners there, her clientele seem just as curious and eager to find out what Ethiopian food is all about as we were, Lula greeting her regulars like long lost friends.
Popping in for some lunch, we were however expecting a fairly simple offering, but Lula has pulled out all the stops, transforming the former chocolate shop with an enticing facade of black and gold, tastefully decorated within.
Seated at an elegant table perfect for people-watching, we dived in. Choose from injera, (a spongy, sour, pancake-like flatbread made from fermented teff flour) or rice, and a sauce for £8.50, throw in any extras and get cracking. Your meal can be as simple, or excessive, as you fancy.
Of course we tipped in at the gluttonous end of the scale, trying a bit of everything; the red lentils, yellow split peas, shiro (spiced chickpea stew), mushroom, beetroot and fosolia (green beans). The majority are more spicy stews than sauces, and vary in heat, some quite mild, others kicking in with real chilli punch, so ask first!
All of the above is veggie/vegan, but it is also all gluten free, and with the richness of the flavours and intoxicating new tastes, the menu doesn’t lack any pulling power.
But first the injera, so novel, and unlike anything else. Yes it’s used much like a paratha, roti or even a tortilla, to mop up the sauce, but its texture is totally unique, almost crumpet-like in its bounce, with a bitter almost citrusy taste. We loved it.
If you prefer your stews on the mild side then opt for the green bean fosolia, the thick yellow split peas and the azifa lentil salad, the latter almost like a Middle Eastern dish, silky with oil and rich with tomatoes and lime juice. The beetroot (roasted and made into a robust stew) added a juicy, vibrant colour to the plate.
You could also opt for the spicy mushrooms, (otherwise known as a tibs stir-fry) which is packed with flavour, the mushrooms and onions sautéed with Berbere spice, coriander, cardamom, rosemary, balsamic and absolutely irresistible. We ordered a second portion.
If it’s serious heat you’re after then the red lentil stew and the shiro (spiced chickpea) fit the bill, the shiro silky, smooth and piquant, the red lentils more rustic, but similarly tasty.
Washed down with lashings of Ethiopian tea, served in individual teapots, the chai rich with spices slowly diffusing, it was not only thirst-quenching but the perfect foil for the rich spicy food.
Some delicious slices of carrot cake followed, and the whole experience concluded with an Ethiopian coffee ceremony poured from an ornate coffee pot, called a jebena, into tiny cups and served with a large dish of popcorn. Traditionally it’s a way of friends and family gathering and connecting back in Ethiopia, which seemed a fitting ending to our Lulu’s experience.
Because Lula has achieved a similar hub at her new spot in the Covered Market, introducing Ethiopian and Eritrean cuisine to anyone willing to try something a bit different.
And if you fancy replicating some of Lula’s hospitality at home, then the deli side means you can take home her tea spice mix, coffee, honey and signature Awaze and Kulet sauces which are all available to buy on site.
A fantastic and novel addition then to Oxford’s indoor market and the city’s international vibe. So go, out of curiosity, as a gourmet, as a pitstop, or as a friendly and accessible space. Makespace has already supported Lula’s endeavours, and as a community we should do the same.
Lula’s Ethiopian Cafe and Deli is at Oxford’s Covered Market. https://www.lulasethiopiancuisine.co.uk
