Anticipation building, stomachs audibly rumbling despite the thickness of the walls at The Cinnamon Stick in Middle Barton near Chipping Norton, we were led through to the Arabian Lounge at the back which reigns supreme during the summer months.
What a joy it was to be back, every visit there a treat. Because this is the domain of chef patron Khalid Jolan, who set up shop in the former Carpenters Arms in 2016, and has continued to delight the locals, and fans who travel from far and wide, to enjoy some of his truly authentic Middle-Eastern food.
Decorated in Persian rugs, drapes, wall hangings and tablecloths, it’s like being transported to a souk, the extensive menu providing so many delicious sounding options.
And yet it’s still a revelation when you start tasting the food, and remember how authentic and unique The Cinnamon Stick is. Because Khalid hails from Syria and knows what he’s doing when recreating the dishes of his homeland. The recent addition of the wood-fired oven has only added to his repertoire.
The recent addition of the wood-fired oven has only added to khalid’s repertoire
We have our favourites, the must have staples worth leaving home for, such as the taboulleh (£6.19), the rich parsley salad with lemon juice and olive oil, vibrant in both colour and taste, or the smoky aubergine dip Moutabel (£6.19), richer and thicker than its compatriot babaganoush, thickened with tahini.
The Kellage Halloumi (£7.15) – thin, grilled, folded flatbreads filled with melted, stringy halloumi and fresh mint, are literally irresistible – we could eat platefuls, and of course the Zahra Maklia (£6.50) – fried, almost blackened, cauliflower with a creamy, piquant tahini dressing.
The Kellage Halloumi – thin, grilled, folded flatbreads filled with melted, stringy halloumi and fresh mint – are literally irresistible
Sadly the Maqaneq (£7.80), Middle Eastern lamb sausages cooked with pine nuts, had sold out, the table next to us nabbing the last portion, so we’ll have to return for those because Khalid makes them himself, hence their popularity, but we happily made do with the Kibbeh (£8.35) – wheat crust stuffed minced lamb with pine nuts and onion in a crispy shell.
The few new dishes we tried included the Lebanese Mousakka (£6.55), a succulent, silky grilled aubergine stew with onion, tomatoes, and chickpeas, a huge go-to, and the Laham Meshwi (19.75) – tender cubes of skewered boneless lamb charcoal-grilled from the main course menu, the scorched, juicy meat hitting the spot.
Khalid makes the Maqaneq (Middle Eastern lamb sausages cooked with pine nuts) himself, hence their popularity
The piece de resistance however was the za’atar pizza, thickly sprinkled with the nutty, sour, herby, citrusy, earthy, spice – we devoured every slice on the spot and could have gone again! Such a novel offering.
Washed down with some Lebanese wine, we couldn’t leave without sampling some of the sweet desserts on offer, from the Osmalieh (£6.90), a lebanese cream sandwiched in crispy vermicelli pastry, doused with sugar syrup and topped with pistachios, which was over-the-top in all the right ways.
The piece de resistance however was the za’atar pizza
Then some nammoura (£6.90), a baked semolina cake with rose water syrup, served hot with a scoop of vanilla ice cream, and the muhlaya (£5.95) a Middle-Eastern version of a rice pudding, made with almond milk, rose water and pistachios.
The service is friendly and prompt, the setting charming, and there are no airs and graces here. The Cinnamon Stick isn’t pretending to be anything other than exactly what it says on the tin – a restaurant serving some of the most authentic and heart-warming Middle-Eastern food in Oxfordshire. Which is why we return time-and-time-again.
The Cinnamon Stick is at 122 North St, Middle Barton, near Chipping Norton. OX7 7DA https://thecinnamonstick.co.uk
